Handloom Construction and Use

7 Weaves, Patterns and Finishing Touches

Planning the Fabric

Before warping the loom, it is necessary to decide:

-- Width -- Length -- Amount of warp and weft needed -- Weave to be used -- Pattern -- Finishing needed or desired

Determining Length and Width

Cloth Width: The width of the loom frame limits the maximum width of the cloth, but the same loom can be used to make narrower cloth. It is wise to use an uneven number of warp threads; in this way both edge warps are in the same position and patterns can be more easily centered.

Cloth Length: The ranges of warp lengths for each loom are listed on page 19. The cloth cannot be the maximum length because it is necessary to leave some warp at the beginning and end for fringe or ending off. However, weaving several articles on the same warp is possible, if you make articles less than the maximum length; for example, on a warp of 3,000cm, you could weave ten rugs 270cm long with a 10cm fringe at each end.

Determining Amount of Warp and Weft

It is not easy to determine the exact quantity of thread needed for weaving a particular article. A formula for making rough estimates of the warp and weft needed was given on page 119. The formula is summarized below:

Number of vertical threads per [cm.sup.2] x width x length = warp needed

Number of horizontal threads per [cm.sup.2] x width x length = weft needed

There are several adjustments which can be used to get a more accurate result from this formula.

Fringe Allowance: Make an allowance for fringe at both ends of each article woven. Even if the edge will be hemmed, leave at least 10cm for tying off the warp before hemming. Very elabourate fringes will, of course, require much more than 10cm of warp at each end.

Fiber Allowance: If using more than one type of fibre for the weft, adjust the amount of thread needed to take into account the different diameters of weft being used:

1. Determine the number of horizontal threads per cm for each fibre.

2. Determine the length of cloth containing each fibre.

3. Multiply the result of step 1 by the result of step 2 for each fibre.

4. Multiply the result of step 3 by the total width of the cloth. <see picture>

hcaxa128.gif

  EXAMPLE: The total length of this piece of fabric is 30cm; the width is 9cm. The warp is a 2 ply wool, the weft a 2 ply wool with three stripes each of heavy goathair 3cm wide. The number of threads per cm2 for the wool is 3 and for the goathair 2.

SOLUTION:

1. Wool threads per cm = 3 Goathair threads per cm = 2

2. Length of wool weft = 30 - 9 = 21 Length of goathair weft = 3 x 3 = 9

3. Number of wool threads needed = 3 x 21 = 63 Number of goathair threads needed = 2 x 9 = 18

4. Total length of wool needed = 63 x 9 = 577cm Total length of goathair needed = 18 x 9 = 162cm

Keeping Records

It is hard to remember all the different threadings, yarns, patterns, etc. that are used in weaving a piece of cloth. Keep a record (as illustrated) of this information on a card or in a notebook. Then it will be possible to make the same cloth again without doing the calculations over again each time. If there is a small piece of the fabric left, attach that to the record as well.

SAMPLE WEAVING RECORD

Article: Dates Woven: Warp: type - # per cm - total length - Weft: type - # per cm - total length - Threading: Pattern: Finishing: Sample:

Types of Weaves

Interesting textural patterns can be created by varying the ways in which the warp and weft interlock. In this section a number of different weaves will be described. The following chart lists these weaves and the looms for which they are best suited.

Loom Weaves

Frame Loom Plain weave Basket weave Rib weave

Inkle Loom Plain weave Basket weave Rib weave

Foot-Powered Loom Plain weave Basket weave Rib weave Twill weave Herringbone twills Double weave

Drafting Threading Patterns

After chosing a weave or pattern, the warp is threaded through the heddles in the proper order to produce that weave. The diagram shows the order in which the warp will be threaded. This order, or pattern, is called the draft of the weave or pattern.

hcaxa130.gif

The long rectangle or bar represents the heddle rod. Each square represents one heddle eye or hole. A black square means a warp thread passes through that hole. The white squares represent a thread that does not pass through the heddle.

In all drafts two squares at each end will either be black or white. This is because two warps should be threaded together at each end to strengthen the selvedge and to make the cloth longer wearing.

The pattern is indicated between the double selvedge squares. Some patterns will require an even number of warp threads; others require an odd number of warps.

The Inkle and Frame looms have only one heddle rod - so only one draft will be shown.

The foot-powered loom, on the other hand, has two or more heddle rods. Every thread must pass through one, and only one, heddle. Drafts for this loom will show two or more bars. The lowest bar on the page represents the rod closest to the weaver. The numbers represent the foot pedals running left to right (make sure the foot pedals are tied in this order.

hcaxa131.gif

Plain Weave

hcaxb131.gif

In plain weave the weft crosses over and under alternate warp threads.

Drafts of Threading for Plain Weave

hcaxa130.gif

Basket Weave

hcaxc132.gif

In basket weave two or more adjacent warp threads are lifted together and two or more weft threads are inserted together, in other words, 2 warp/2 weft or 4 warp/2 weft.

Drafts of Threading for Basket Weave

hcax132b.gif

Rib Weave

hcaxa133.gif

In rib weave, different numbers of warp are lifted alternately; for example 3 warp/1 warp or 4 warp/2 warp.

Drafts of Threading for Rib Weave

hcaxb133.gif

Twill Weave (Foot-Powered Loom only)

Twill can only be woven on a four-heddle loom. Twills are very sturdy and durable and this weave is suitable for heavy woolen fabric used in pants, jackets and suits.

Draft of Threading for Basic Twill

hcaxd133.gif

Draft of Threading for Herringbone Twill

hcaa1340.gif

Variation of Twill Weaves

hcaxc134.gif

After a twill is threaded, different twill weaves can be created by pressing the foot pedals in a different order. For example, if the loom is threaded in the herringbone twill above, a diamond twill can be produced by pressing the foot pedals in the following order: A basic twill threading treadled in a different order might produce the following:

1/3 Broken Twill:

hcaxa135.gif

1 2 4 3 1 2 4 3, etc.

Two foot pedals can be pressed together. For example: (1-2) (2-3) (3-4) (4-1) will produce a 2/2 twill.

hcaxb135.gif

Color Pattern Weaves

Use different coloured warps and/or wefts in the same article to make attractive patterns. Because it is important to know what kind of facing--warp or weft--the finished cloth will have when planning a colour pattern, facings are discussed first. If this step is overlooked it is possible that warp or weft threads may hide some of the pattern.

Facings

Balanced weave: Both the warp and weft show equally: most looms produce this kind of weave when the warp and the weft are the same diameter and evenly spaced

hcaxa136.gif

Warp-faced weave: Only the warp shows on the finished cloth: usually produced when the warp is thicker than the weft, or if the weft is more widely spaced than the warp. The Inkle loom usually produces a warp-faced cloth.

hcaxb136.gif

Weft-faced: Only the weft shows on the finished cloth: it is usually produced when the weft is thicker than the warp and the warp is more widely spaced than the weft.

hcaxc136.gif

Color Pattern Weaves

Stripes: Thread the loom for plain weave but alternate the colour of either the warp or weft. The facing can be either warp or weft-faced. If the warp varies in colour, the result will be vertical stripes; if the weft varies in colour, horizontal stripes will result.

hcax137.gif

Broken Stripes: On warp or weft-faced cloth, one thread of a contrasting colour placed between groups of another colour produces a broken or dotted line.

hcaxa138.gif

Simple Check: On warp or weft-faced cloth, alternating single threads of two different colours produce a feathery check design.

hcaxb138.gif

These three stripe patterns presented above can be combined to produce a great variety of attractive designs.

hcax138.gif

Plaids: When the colour of both the warp and the weft is varied, and the facing is balanced a plaid will result. Threading as for plain weave.

hcaxa139.gif

 

hcaxb139.gif

True Checks: Checks are most suitable for balanced weave cloth: use the same type of warp and weft in two contrasting colours. Thread as for plain weave.

hcaxc139.gif

Tapestry Weave

Tapestry weave is used to create designs or pictures in the cloth as it is woven. The loom is threaded for plain weave. The cloth must be weft-faced (thin warp, thick weft).

In plain weaving, the weft is threaded back and forth across the entire width of the warp. In tapestry weave, wefts of different colours are woven within selected areas of the planned design.

1. Planning the Design:

hcaxa140.gif

Draw the design on paper and lay it beneath the warp threads. Using a water soluble material, draw the design directly on the warp. This will help guide the weaver.

2. Putting in the Weft:

a. Shuttles are not used in tapestry weaving. Rather, lengths of coloured weft are tied in "butterflies" (see illustration) and worked in the area needed.

hcaxb140.gif

b. In tapestry weaving, all the colours of the pattern are put in row by row. In other words, if the row has part of a red flower, a green leaf and a yellow background, then you must put in red, yellow and green weft for that row before you change the heddle position (see illustration.

hcaxa141.gif

c. Within the row the adjacent coloured wefts can be interlocked in one of several ways.

Slit Method: This method creates a slit between the two colours.

hcaxc141.gif

Although this method produces a clean definition line between areas of the design, it weakens the fabric and should, therefore, not be used where weakened strength or slits in the cloth would be undesirable--as in sacks or in blankets. It is a useful method for rugs or decorated bags, where the slits do not extend more than 8cm.

Interlocking over Common Warp:

hcaxa142.gif

Produces a strong, continuous fabric; the edges between the different colours of the design are feathery or saw-toothed in effect and not as sharp as in the slit method.

Interlocking Wefts: Produces a strong, continuous fabric; the edges between the design are sharp, but a slight raised bump may show at the join.

hcaxb142.gif

 

Knotted Weaves

Knotted weaves produce a pile or shag-faced cloth. Thread the loom for plain weave. Knot short lengths of weft around two warp threads, as shown. The knots are illustrated below.

hcaxa143.gif

After a row of knots, several rows of plain weave are woven to strengthen the cloth. Then the tails of the knots are trimmed to produce the pile or are left long to produce a shag.

Knotted weaves are used generally for heavy rugs and carpets. They can also be used for Jackets and blankets. When worn with the shag on the inside, an insulating effect results and the garments are extra warm.

1. Varieties of Knotted Weaves

a. Velvet Pile: The velvet finish of oriental type rugs is produced by using a good wool for the knotting and by tying about 40-150 knots per square centimeter. After several rows of knots are tied and two to three rows of plain weave are in place, the pile is cut very short--about 0.5 to 1.0cm.

hcaxc143.gif

b. Shag Finish: A shaggy finish does not require as many knots per cm2 as does the pile. A good range is from 4 to 5 per cm2. Wool, mohair and soft synthetic mixes produce attractive shags. Tails of knots should be about 5 to 8cm.

hcaxa144.gif

c. Looped Shag: A shag can also be produced by putting a weft through the warp and then pulling the loops out of the weft (as shown left). This row is alternated

hcaxb144.gif

with several rows of very tightly woven plain weave. The tightly woven plain weave is necessary because there is no knot to hold the loops of weft in place.

2. Cutting the Weft for Knotted Weaves

In order to cut uniform lengths of yarn for knotting, make a gauge from a piece of wood or heavy cardboard. Wrap yarn around so no loop overlaps another and slice off with a knife as shown.

hcaxc144.gif

  3. Placement of Knots

a. Knots can be alternated to avoid small openings on the back as shown (left).

hcaxd144.gif

b. At the selvedge, take the yarn over and under the two outside warp threads. Do not make a knot. This will give you a smooth edge.

hcaxa145.gif

Finishing Touches

This section describes techniques for finishing off woven articles. After an article is woven, it is necessary to secure the weft at both ends to prevent it from unraveling. Several methods of tying off the warp are presented here. You will also find directions for joining two woven pieces of cloth as well as suggestions for bag handles.

Overhand Knotted Fringe

1. Cut the warp at both ends; leave about 15cm.

2. Separate the warp into groups each having the same number of threads in each. Groups should not be wider than 1cm.

3. Take one group and make a loop as shown below.

hcaxb145.gif

4. Pull ends through loop.

5. Push knot as close as possible to the end of the cloth as you tighten it.

6. Repeat for each group until all warp is tied.

7. Make sure all knots are made in the same direction.

Simple Hemming

hcaxa146.gif

1. Cut the warp at both ends, leaving about 8cm in length.

2. Separate the warp into groups having the same number of threads in each.

3. Tie each group with an overhand knot.

4. Fold over the edge to the back.

5. Tuck under the tied warp.

6. Hem with an overcast stitch.

Variations on Overhand Knotted Fringe

The following illustrations show some of the many possibilities

hcab1460.gif

longer the warp must be left.

1. Cut a piece of weft six times the width of the cloth.

2. Mark the center of this length and wind each end into a butterfly.

3. Place midpoint of yarn around the first 4 warp threads at right edge. <see picture>

hcaxb147.gif

4. Bring end on top of the warp under the next group of four.

5. Bring end below warp, up and over the same 4 warp threads.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the left edge is reached. Turn and return to right end continuing twining the warp.

Philippine Tie

1. Separate warp into groups of eight.

2. Begin at left edge.

3. Take the fifth and sixth ends of the first group and wrap around the first to fourth ends making a half-hitch as illustrated (right).

hcaxc147.gif

4. Take the seventh and eighth ends and wrap over and back the third to sixth ends.

5. Repeat for each group of eight warp. <see picture>

hcaxa148.gif

Square Knotted Fringes (Macrame)

1. Secure the weft using twining or the Philippine Tie.

2. Separate the warp into groups of four, or multiples of four.

3. The following illustrations show how to make a square knot.

hcaxb148.gif

4. After the first row of knots, divide the warp from each knot into halves and make a knot using the half from two adjacent knots.

5. Square knots can be used in patterns similar to these shown for the overhand knot.

6. More patterns and techniques for macrame can be found in some of the sources listed at the end of this manual.

Finger Woven Edges

hcaxa149.gif

This technique, although time-consuming, produces a strong, durable edge very suitable for bags where the warp edge forms the opening of the bag.

1. Leave about 8cm of warp on each end.

2. Lay fabric on flat surface and separate the first 5 or 7 warp threads.

3. Take the first thread and weave it in and out of the next four threads. <see picture>

hcaxb149.gif

4. Pull end down toward the fabric.

5. Pick up next warp thread, so that you continue to have an odd number of threads. <see picture>

hcaxc149.gif

6. Weave second thread through the next four. Pull down toward fabric.

7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 picking up a new thread each time one is woven and pulled down.

8. With this technique the warp lays against the fabric. It can be braided and tacked down to produce an attractive edge. <see picture>

hcaxa150.gif

Adding Fringe

Sometimes you may want to put a fringe on the selvedges, or you may wish to make a fringe of yarn different from the warp threads.

1. To Add Fringe to Warp Ends.

a. Hem edge as described under hemming (page 146) b. Cut yarn for fringe twice as long as desired. c. Using a needle, insert each piece of yarn into edge from front to back, and then through front again as shown (below).

hcaxb150.gif

d. Fold ends over and pull through loop.

e. Repeat for each piece of fringe desired. 2. To Add to Selvedge.

a. Skip step 1 above, and continue as described in steps 2-5.

Handles

Handles for bags of all kinds can be made in many ways. A handle should meet the following requirements.

Support the weight of what will be carried in the bag.

Be attached well.

Match the yarn and colours used in the bag.

1. Monk's Cord

This is the easiest and quickest way to make a handle. Use a strong but flexible fibre that will stand heavy use - such as 4 ply carpet wool, heavy linen or cotton.

a. Determine how many strands you need, by taking two or more pieces of yarn and twisting them together tightly to see how thick a handle it makes.

b. Cut the desired number of strands three times the finished length.

c. Put an overhand knot in one end and place on a hook on a wall or stake in the ground. <see picture>

hcaxa151.gif

d. Twist as tightly as possible for the entire length.

e. Take the end you are holding and fold it back to the end on hook.

f. Remove hooked end and let the two pieces twist together. <see picture>

hcaxb151.gif

g. Whip stitch the ends (see below).

hcaxa152.gif

2. Braids

a. Select a number of strands to make the handle the thickness desired.

b. Cut into lengths twice as long as desired handle.

c. Separate into 3 groups for a three-strand braid, or into 4 groups for a four-strand braid.

d. Braid as illustrated. (It is helpful to have someone hold the end or fasten it to a hook, while you are braiding it.)

hcab1520.gif

J. Attaching the Handles

Attach the handles securely to the body of the bag. The following method offers the most strength, plus the option of quickly adding a new handle if the original breaks or becomes worn. 1. Detachable Handle.

a. After bag has been sewn together and all edges finished, take a piece of cord and with a heavy needle insert it into the right corner of the bag opening. Go through both front and back of bag, several times making a loose ring.

b. Tie into ring.

hcaxc153.gif

c. Select a sturdy yarn that matches the bag and tie end around cord.

d. Draw end of yarn through cord ring and then back through its own loop making a half-hitch.

e. Repeat, making half-hitches completely around the cord until it is completely covered. <see picture>

hcaxa154.gif

f. Repeat steps 1 to 5 on the left corner.

g. Tie handle to loops.

2. Permanent Handles

Other methods involve sewing the handle to the bag. Use very heavy thread and a large eye needle. A 3" shoemaker's needle is helpful on heavy woven fabrics. The styles of handle attachment presented here are in order of strength.

hcaxb154.gif

Joining Two Pieces of Woven Fabric

Most looms make cloth of only limited width; therefore, it is sometimes necessary to join woven pieces together for larger articles such as rugs, bedspreads, sheets, or tablecloths.

When joining two or more pieces, weave each section so that the pattern and weave match on the edges being Joined. Use strong thread or yarn in a colour that either matches or contrasts with the fabric, depending upon the effect desired.

Ball Stitch

1. Butt the selvedges of the pieces to be joined together so that the pattern matches.

2. Baste lightly with large stitches to keep the pieces in place.

hcaxb155.gif

3. Fasten thread on right selvedge at top.

4. Bring needle diagonally across left to right. <see picture>

hcaxa155.gif

5. Go under left selvedge and push needle from back to front 2-3 threads lower than beginning stitch. <see picture>

hcaxc155.gif

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 going from right to left.

7. Stagger the stitches so no stitch is opposite one on the other selvedge. <see picture>

hcax156.gif

8. Continue steps 4 to 6 until bottom is reached. Tie off Joining thread.