Autonopedia

A

Cut off a piece of ^7/16" bar 6½" long by nicking both sides with a cold chisel to give an even-sided end. A sheared cut is always one-sided, producing an uneven end which would cause the bar to skew and bend when being struck on the top for upsetting. See illustration D.

B

Make the first mark on the bar 3" from one end, and the second mark 1 " from the first.

Take a NEAR WELDING heat between the punch marks.

To restrict the heat between the two marks, cool out from the end to the first mark by dipping in water, like this -

C

Cool beyond the second mark by pouring water from a tin as shown -

Both cooling operations must be done quickly to keep the maximum heat between the marks.

D

To upset the hot portion, hold the bar vertically on anvil and strike the top like this -

After every two or three blows straighten the resultant buckling on the anvil face and then continue upsetting until the diameter is increased to ^9/16".

E

Take a NEAR WELDING heat on the short end and draw to a blunt point to form a scarf.

Bend this end from the upset portion over a ^3/4" diameter drift like this -

F

Take a FULL WELDING heat and weld the scarf into the shank with the bend of the eye over the rounded edge of the anvil like this -

Round up the weld with light hammer blows, leaving a radius where the eye joins the shank.

G

Work up the eye on the bick, leaving a slight V in the junction of the weld, like this -

Don't use a swage to round up the weld as this may weaken the eye by cutting into the radius where the ring joins the shank.