Axes and Hatchets
Like the hammer, the axe is an ancient tool, among the first used by man. It developed over a long period from about 8000 to 2000 BC. The first heads were of flint or other hard stone, fixed to wooden or bone handles, either let in directly or fitted into a slot in a knee-shaped bend and lashed with thongs. The earliest copper axe heads followed the same pattern. With the discovery of the bronze casting process, the heads were made with a slot to fit over the end of the bent handle.
It took some time for Bronze Age smiths to realize that a more efficient tool would be produced by making a hole in the head itself to take the handle. Axes constructed this way eventually appeared in Eastern Europe about 2500 BC. Oddly enough the Egyptians never adopted this obvious solution for securing the axe head but preferred the old-fashioned method of attaching the head with thongs.
Other notable carpenters of the period, the Cretans and Myceneans, introduced a special tool, the double axe, which also became a religious symbol. It was not known in Europe after the Roman period but re-emerged about 1840 in Maine, where it was used for felling trees.
With the introduction of iron, axes became more specialised. The Romans developed a full range of felling, hewing and general purpose axes and about this time the smiths discovered that iron could be transformed into steel by working it with the charcoal from the forge and that this, when tempered, gave a sharper and more effective tool.
Once the basic construction had been perfected, the axe diversified even further to suit the special requirements of crafts, such as ship-building and barrel-making. During the Middle Ages, different tradesmen developed their own patterns, each type having regional variations according to the kind of work done and the local wood available.
Over the last two centuries, the number of specialized and regional variants has dwindled. However, a revitalizing contribution from America was the long handled, wedge headed felling axe, indispensable to pioneers. Whereas most earlier European axes were fiat backed, this had a heavy poll which gave more weight and therefore more momentum to the woodman's swing.
The difference between an axe and a hatchet is primarily one of size. A large, heavy headed tool wielded with both hands is an axe; hatchets are always used with one hand and usually have lighter heads and straight handles.
Axe heads
Head shapes vary according to the function of the axe. They can be wedge shaped, flat backed, curve edged, with or without lugs or even equipped with vocational extras, like the spike on a fire axe. However, the basic elements are the same and the Kent axe head (below.) incorporates most of the features found on any modern axe.
How it works
An axe cuts with a cutting and splitting action. The sharp edge of the bit makes the initial cut and the weight of the thick wedge drives in after it to open up the cut. The heavier the head, the greater the cutting force. The angle at which the cutting edge is ground will to some extent be determined by the wood being cut.
The angle of the edge
A fine narrow edge will suit softwoods but will soon become blunt if used on hardwoods, which need a chunkier, wider angled edge.
Handles, Shafts and Hafts
Axe and hatchet handles are commonly made from hickory or ash. Both woods are strong and springy due to their long fibers, and can withstand and absorb the shocks incurred during use.
Some modern hatchets are now made with tubular steel handles with a hammer-like grip to absorb the shock. These handles are made as an integral part of the hatchet and should last the tool's lifetime.
Handle shapes have traditionally been a matter of personal preference. Before mass production, craftsmen would make their own. These were often straight, being a simpler shape to make, and usually oval in section for comfortable handling and greater directional control. Straight handle axes are still available while hatchets, being one handed tools often have straight, hammer like handles.
The most common axe handle today, used also for hatchets, is the "fawnfoot" pattern. This beautifully curving shape, thought to have evolved in America for the felling axe, has a wide shoulder and a slim, elliptical section. The end has a pronounced swelling resembling the foot of a fawn complete with toe and heel. This is a safety ieaiur wiiicii prevents the axe from slipping dangerously through the hand.
Fitting a new shaft
A wooden axe handle is fitted to the head through the waisted, elliptical hole known as the eye. The tapered end of the handle is spread and held in place with a wedge. To replace a broken handle, remove the broken end from the eye using a chisel. Make a saw cut lengthways across the top end of the new shaft and cut a slim hardwood wedge to fit. Drive the handle into the head until it is a tight fit, then drive in the wedge. Cut off any projecting waste flush with the axe head. Additional metal wedges can be driven in across the eye.
Kent Axe
OTHER NAME: Broad hatchet
SIZE: Head: 24lb.; Handle: 18in.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: hickory
USE: General purpose
A number of English axes were named after the counties in which they were developed and used but the Kent axe is the only surviving pattern. Although there are a number of variations of the Kent pattern, most have a symmetrical blade with a curved cutting edge, curved shoulders, pointed lugs in front and behind the eye, and a flat poll. The handle is usually the fawnfoot type but a straight, hammer type handle can be fitted to the smaller versions.
Hunter's Hatchet
OTHER NAME: Canada hatchet
SIZE: Head: 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 lb; Handle: 14 to 16in.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: ash or hickory
USE: To trim and shape wood
The hunter's hatchet has a light, wedge-type head and a slightly curved handle with a straight foot. The Canada hatchet has a similar head, but is fitted with a fawnfoot handle.
Half Hatchet
OTHER NAMES: Shingle hatchet; lathing hatchet
SIZE: Head: 1-1/4 to 21b.; Handle: 12 to 13in.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: hickory or steel tube with vinyl grip
USE: To trim and nail shingles or lathes
The half hatchet always has a head with a straight front edge, a rounded rear shoulder and an elongated poll which may be octagonal, square or rounded to form a hammer head. In some cases the curved shoulder is notched to forma nail puller. The flat front edge enables the head to be used close to a corner as when fixing lathes near a ceiling.
Wedge Felling Axe
OTHER NAMES: American axe, square axe, Yankee axe
SIZE: Head: 2-1/2 to 61b.; Handle: 27 to 36in.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: hickory
USE: To fell trees or cut a "mouth" for the felling saw
Felling axes are the largest type of axe. The head weight and handle length usually reduce in proportion to maintain a well balanced tool.
The wedge pattern, said to have come to prominence in the USA, is now the most widely used type for felling and general work. It has a thick short head with a single wedge shaped bit and is noted fc: its large fiat poll. The cheeks are extra thick, swelling out about 2in. up from the cutting edge which has a cutting bevel on each side. Its stocky shape and concentrated weight make this pattern comparatively easy to use - it is steadier and therefore "more accurate to swing. There are many regional variations - Kentucky wedge, Canadian wedge, etc.
English Felling Axe
OTHER NAMES: Kent felling axe; trimming axe; rounding axe
SIZE: Head: 3 to 61b.; Handle: 28 to 36in.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: hickory
USE: To fell, lop and top trees
This axe has a straight front edge, single flared shoulder, and pointed lug behind the eye. It has a longer, slimmer head than the American wedge and a square poll.
Double Bit Axe
SIZE: Head: 3ilb.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: hickory
USE: To fell, lop and top trees
This axe has a wedge type head with two cutting edges and is, in effect, two axes in one. Because the two edges share the work, it does not need sharpening so often. It can also be ground to different cutting bevels for various types of work. The axe is fitted with a straight, symmetrical handle which allows it to be gripped either way round. It is most commonly known in the USA, where it has been irreverently called the Methodist Axe because it is two faced.
Using a felling axe
The felling axe is designed to be used with two hands, one gripping the handle close to the foot end, the other sliding up and down the handle during the swing. The swing should be a natural movement using the whole body, legs apart and slightly flexed to give good stability, and the feet firmly placed.
Downward cut
Lift the axe with the sliding hand under the head. Pull this arm back, lifting the axe head up and away from the tree, at the same time twisting your body. Your fixed hand, holding on to the front of the handle, will pass across your body and at maximum lift will be about level with your shoulders.
As the stroke is made, this hand and arm pulls the axe across the body, with the sliding hand following through, guiding the tool. Both hands should meet at the bottom of the stroke. A slight ierk should free the blade from the cut and the process can then be repeated,
Upward cut
An upward cut is made in a similar way but the axe is pulled back in a low arc with the body bent away from the tree.
Take care to avoid a glancing blow which could cause the blade to skid off the tree.
Slater's Axe
SIZE: Length: approximately 16in.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: ash
USE: To trim and cut siaie
The slater's axe has a rectangular shaped bit about 10in. long. It is fitted by means of a tang to a 6 in. round section handle that is parallel with the cutting edge. A flat spike, curving slightly backward toward the handle projects from the back edge of the bit near the centre. The spike is for punching nail holes into slates.
To trim slate, support the roughly shaped piece on a straight edged flat block. With the edge of the slate overhanging the block, make a series of cuts with the axe using the straight edge as a guide. On finishing the first side, turn the slate 90 and trim the second side. Continue until all sides are straight and square.
Side Axe
OTHER NAMES: Broad axe, hewing axe
SIZE: Head: 3 to 71b.
MATERIAL: Head: steel; Handle: ash or hickory
USE: To trim, shape and dimension lumber
A side axe was widely used by the medieval builder but is uncommon now. It is short handled and easily manoeuvered in a small space. Only one edge of the bit is beveled for cutting, as the blade is used flat against the work. It belongs to the broad axe family, and so has a curved cutting edge wider than the depth of the head. Side axes are sometimes fitted with specially cranked handles which offset the grip and provide generous knuckle clearance.
Alternatively, the eye of the axe is set off-centre to throw the handle out at an angle from the line of the cutting edge. A number of trades used side axes in various forms, and these were known as coopers' axes, coachmakers' axes, and wheelwrights' axes. In each case they were used for sliaping components such as barrel staves or wheel spokes.
AXES AND HATCHETS
