Brushes, Rollers and Paint Sprayers

Brushes of some kind must have been used by the cave painters of the Old Stone Age, but what they were made of is not known. To come to more recent times, the accounts for work done at Westminster in 1352, quoted by L.F. Salzman in his Building in England include "2 dussen graye (badger) tailes and 4 dussen quyllis whereof were made pensellis and for threde had for byndynge of the same." For St Stephen's Chapel in the same year "2-1/2d was paid for 30 quills of peacocks and swans and squirrel tails for the painters' brushes and thread for binding the brushes and pencils and 12d for a pound of pigs' bristles."

The construction of brushes

Before being bound to the stock of the brush, the filling is "set" in pitch, resin or more commonly in vulcanized rubber, which is impervious to all the normal materials a paint brush is likely to encounter. Pitch and resin may dissolve in volatile spirit and are therefore used mainly for dry brushes such as dusting brushes or for brushes used only with water such as washing down brushes.

The ends of the filling are dipped in the setting and bound while still soft to hold them firmly in the stock. There are several ways of binding, the most familiar being the metal ferrule. This is a sheet of thin metal wrapped around the filling and riveted or pinned to the stock section of the handle.

Seamless ferrules are pressed onto the filling and handle in one continuous band. On other brushes, the filling is a circular bunch of filaments, set and bound to the stock with wire or string. Each group of filaments is known as a knot. Knotted brushes can also be bound with sheet metal.

Some brushes have the filling divided into small circular bunches, bound with string or wire and set with rubber or pitch into holes drilled at regular intervals in the stock.

The filling

The filling is the part of the brush commonly referred to as the "bristles". This is a misnomer, now entrenched in the language, as strictly speaking, the word describes only one of the common fillings.

Bristle

Bristle filling, obtained from the coat of a boar, is used in the best quality paint brushes, and can be black, white, gray or yellow. The natural construction of bristles makes them ideal for applying paint. Each individual filament is tapered and finally splits at the end which helps when "laying off" the paint; the split ends are known as "flags'".

The barbed surface of the bristle enables them to retain more paint than other fillings, and a bristle brush is very resilient, springing back to its original shape when flexed. However, when used with water-based paint, brushes with bristle filling may swell out of shape.

Horsehair

Horsehair filling comes from the mane and tail of a horse. Horsehair is perfectly smooth and lacks the resilience of bristle. It is best used to bulk out a filling in combination with better quality filaments.

Oxhair

Oxhair filaments are very similar to horsehair, but somewhat coarser, available in black, brown and white they are used for grainers and also for professional signwriting brushes.

Badgerhair

A soft yet springy filling used for softeners. They are easily recognized by the gradation of their color from white to black.

Fibre

Fibre is a cheap, tough filling obtained from the stem of a palm tree. Its natural color is yellowish white, but it is often dyed to match better quality filaments when used in combination with them. It is often used in washing down brushes, and wall brushes designed for rough surfaces.

Synthetic filling

Many modern paint brushes are now made with nylon or other synthetic filaments. Good quality synthetic fillings are very hard-wearing and apply paint well. The filaments are made to resemble genuine bristle, being tapered, flagged and textured to hold the paint.

Squirrel and sable

These are soft brush fillings, used in short lengths only for the thin paint brushes used for signwriting and graining.

Choosing a brush

A good quality brush is an investment as long as you clean and store it properly after use. It will hold more paint and apply it better than a cheap brush, and is less likely to shed its filaments.

Test the resilience of a new brush by stroking it against a firm surface as though you were painting. The filling should flex without spreading too much and should spring quickly back to shape.

Fan the filling with your fingers to insure that it is solidlv set and bound to the stock. Make sure that a ferruled brush is firmly attached to its handle.

Testing the brush

Fan the brush to check that the filling is firmly set and bound securely to the stock.

Flat Paint Brush

OTHER NAME: Varnish brush

SIZE: 1 to 4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, fibre, synthetic, mixed; Binding: plated steel; Handle: hardwood

USE: To apply paint or varnish

Flat paint brushes are used for applying gloss or semi-matt paint to woodwork.

Do not overload your brush. If you consistently dip it too far into the paint it will begin to run down the handle filling the roots of the bristles. Such paint could be difficult to remove when cleaning the brush.

Hold the brush so that you can move your wrist easily in both directions. Apply the paint in even strokes, flexing the bristle against the surface to make the paint flow down to the tip of the brush. To spread the paint evenly, change the direction of the brush strokes frequently, finishing with light upward strokes to prevent running. Take particular care around mouldings which exert uneven pressure on the bristles squeezing out excess paint to form unwelcome runs.

Normal interior paintwork will need one undercoat which should be left for 16 hours before rubbing down lightly with fine glass paper. Apply one or two top coats as directed bv the manufacturer.

Charging the brush

Dip about a third of the filling into the paint, and touch it lightly on both sides of the lip of the container to remove excess paint from the outside.

Painting doors

Painting doors is an exacting job and requires great care if you are to achieve a smooth, drip-free finish. Paneled doors are particularly tricky as their mouldings encourage paint to run. Do not wear woollen clothing which might shed hairs that stick to the work. Remove all fittings from the door and wedge it in an open position.

Paneled doors

Paneled doors should be painted in the following sequence:

1.  Mouldings

2.  Panels

3.  Centre uprights

4.  Horizontal rails

5.   Side rails

6.  Edges

7.  Frame

When painting any kind of door, make sure that you lay off the paint in the direction of the grain. Do this in each section of the paneled door.

Doors are usually painted with knockproof gloss paint for protection but will still need an undercoat. Apply this in the sequence shown above.

Flush doors

When painting flush doors, you must work at a reasonable speed to avoid join marks showing between sections of paint work. Start at the top. Apply paint across the top section of the door using horizontal and vertical strokes (1). Without reloading the brush, smooth out the entire section with horizontal strokes (2). Finally lay off with light vertical/upward strokes (3). Continue in the same way painting down the door (4).

Baseboards

Use a cardboard mask to protect the floor when painting the baseboards. Paint them last to avoid dust being kicked up on to the wet paint.

Shelves and cupboards

If the gap between the shelves is narrow, cut down the handle of an old brush to avoid marking the paintwork. Paint the inside of a cupboard first to avoid touching doors covered with wet paint.

One Knot Paint Brush

OTHER NAME: Ground brush

SIZE: 2 to 2-3/4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, mixed; Binding: copper wire, sheet copper; Handle: hardwood

USE: To apply paint and varnish

The traditional one knot brush has now been almost entirely superseded by the flat paint brush. They are however particularly good for the application of thick or heavy paint. Knotted brushes have to be "run-in" for a while before they can spread the paint evenly. Older painters would often use the brush as a duster until it was sufficiently worked in to perform well as a paint brush.

Sash Tool

OTHER NAME: Sash brush SIZE: 5/8 to 1in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle; Binding: string, aluminum, plated steel; Handle: hardwood USE: To paint window frames

The sash tool is an old-fashioned brush which is now hardly ever used, and most manufacturers have dropped it from their catalogs. Most painters today use a standard 1/2 to 1in. wide flat paint brush to paint window frames.

Care of brushes

For overnight protection, suspend the brush, with the bristles up to the ferrule -in a suitable solvent. For oil-based paint use turpentine or paint thinner, and for latex paint use clean water. Make sure that the container is deep enough to keep the bristles off the bottom. When using a chemical solvent avoid plastic containers as they might dissolve along with the paint.

Overnight soaking

Suspend the brush in a container of suitable solvent by passing a rod through the hole drilled in the brush handle.

When you have finished the job, wipe off any excess paint and soak out the brush in a container of solvent. When you have removed as much paint as you can, wash the brush in warm soapy water to remove the solvent and partially dissolved paint. Shake out the excess water and blot the filling with an absorbent rag, gently smoothing the bristles into place with the fingers.

Removing excess paint

Wipe off the brush on old newspapers to get rid of as much paint as possible before you soak the brush in solvent.

Removing dissolved paint

Work out remaining paint by squeezing and fanning out the filling with your fingers,

If you will not need to use the brushes for some time, protect the filling by wrapping it up when it is completely dry.

Long term storage

Wrap brush heads in brown paper or aluminum foil, and secure with a rubber band.

Beveled Sash Tool

OTHER NAMES: Trim brush, cutting-in tool

SIZE: 1/2, 3/4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, synthetic, mixed; Binding: plated steel; Handle: hardwood

USE: To paint window frames

The beveled sash tool is a small flat paint brush, with the filling trimmed to an angle. This makes it easier to paint up to the edge of window glass and into the corners of the frame.

Painting around glass

With a little practice, it is not difficult to paint right up to the glass with a slow, free-hand stroke. In fact, a slight overlapping of paint onto the glass seals the gap between putty and glass to make the frame weatherproof. If you do not feel confident, use some form of paint shield. Several commercial shields are available, but a sheet of stiff cardboard will do as well. If you do overshoot, remember that paint can be neatly removed with a razor blade when dry.

Using a paint shield

Press the paint shield into the joint between glass and frame. Hold it in place while painting.

Using masking tape

An alternative method of shielding the glass is to use masking tape, which peels off cleanly. Mask all the edges with tape before applying paint. Peel it off when the paint is dry.

Casement windows

When painting casement windows leave the stay in position to control the angle of the window. Paint it last if it is to match the window frame, or mask it with tape. Paint as follows:

1.  Rabbets, where the frame meets the glass

2.  Crossbars

3.  Cross rails

4.  Side rails and edges

5.  Window frame

Fasten the window open before starting on the cross rails.

Sash windows

Open the window top and bottom and move sash cords out of the way. Paint the bottom meeting rail and as far up the vertical section of die sash as you can go. Almost close the window and paint the rest of the top sash. Paint the bottom sash followed by the frame. When the paint has dried, paint the top 6in. of the outside runners, and with the bottom sash closed, paint the whole of the inside runners.

Before starting, push the bottom sash up and the top sash down to overlap by 6in.

Wall Brush

OTHER NAMES: Distemper brush, kalsomine brush, paste brush

SIZE: 4 to 8in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, iber, mixrd, svntheric; Binding: ,1&d steel,~c6pper wire, sheet :opper; Handle: hardwood

USE: To paint large areas

Wall brushes come in several forms. The traditional model has two or three knots, bound with copper wire or sheet metal. The best known modern version has a one piece handle and stock and is bound like a flat paint brush. The stock extends as a wooden wedge around which bristles are grouped forming a reservoir for the paint.

Another type, sometimes called the “Dutch” pattern, has a turned handle jointed into a wooden stock. The filling is bound to the stock with a metal ferrule.

Large brushes can become very tiring to use, so do not overload your brush.

Latex paint will dry evenly, regardless of brush strokes. If it appears patchy when dry, apply a second coat. Gloss paint on the other hand should be laid off with light vertical strokes. Gloss paint will probably require two undercoats followed by a top coat. The unfinished edges of gloss paintwork should be “picked up” as quickly as possible before they dry out, or they may show when the job is finished.

Use a wide, soft wall brush to apply paste to wallpaper.

Tie a length of string across the paste bucket to support the brush between pasting sessions.

Using the wall brush

Hold the brush like a flat paint brush and then apply the paint in alternating vertical and horizontal strokes to achieve an even cover. Latex paint should dry evenly, but gloss paint needs more care.

Painting a wall with gloss paint

Work in vertical sections across the wall, starting from the ceiling. This blends the wet edges together. Pick up any unblended edges quickly.

Washing Down Brush

OTHER NAME: Wash down brush

SIZE: 6in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, fibre, mixed; Binding: copper wire, sheet copper; Handle: hardwood

USE: To wash walls and ceilings

The washing down brush is used for washing off old paint work and for soaking wallpaper prior to stripping. It is traditionally a two knot brush, resembling a wall brush but with shorter, cheaper quality bristles as filling.

Worn wall brushes will make very good washing down brushes.

Paint Pad

OTHER NAME: Brush pad SIZE: 2 x 1 to 8 x 3-1/2|in.

MATERIAL: Holder: plastic; Pad: mohair covered plastic foam

USE: To apply paint

An entirely new kind of paint applicator, the paint pad has very fine mohair bristles backed up by plastic foam which is clipped into a holder. The pads apply paint quickly and evenly, achieving a very smooth finish, but they are not as versatile as a traditional paint brush.

Clean the pad's fine bristles thoroughly immediately after use. Blot excess paint onto old newspapers, and remove the pad from its holder to clean it in the appropriate solvent.

Dusting Brush

OTHER NAME: Jamb brush

SIZE: 3 to 4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, horsehair, fiber, mixed; Handle!slock: hardwood

USE: To brush down paintwork before painting

The dusting brush is designed to remove the inevitable layer of dust which accumulates after paint has been rubbed down, especially if filling has been applied to mend cracks.

Mottler

SIZE: 1 to 4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: hoghair, camelhair, squirrelhair; Binding: plated steel; Stock: hardwood

USE: To produce imitation wood grain effects

With the mottler a skilled grainer can move wet color over the work to create a wood grain effect, or lift it, to leave pale, soft edged areas. The pressure across the filling is varied by the fingers to produce alternate dark and light stripes of color.

The mottler has no handle as such; the stock doubles as handle, giving the fingers easy access to the filling.

Pencil Overgrainer

SIZE: 1 to 4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: squirrel-hair, sable; Binding: plated steel; Stock: hardwood

USE: To produce imitation wood grain effects

The overgrainer is a row of pencil brushes set into a one piece stock and handle. It is used to draw wood grain effects either by applying color to a surface or by lifting wet color off the work leaving lighter areas to make the pattern.

Flogger

SIZE: 4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle; Binding: plated steel: Handle: hardwood

USE: To produce imitation wood grain effects

A flogger is made like a standard paint brush, but has longer bristles than normal.

The flat of the brush is used to strike or "flog" the wet colour to produce a patterned texture which resembles some types of wood grain.

Softener

SIZE: 2-1/2 to 4in.

MATERIAL: Filling: badgerhair, hoghair, skunkhair; Stock handle: hardwood

USE: To produce imitation wood grain effects

Once the hard edge lines have been drawn on the work with a fine brush, a grainer softens the edges by stroking the color with a softener. The whole graining may be softened, or a graduated band produced by leaving one edge sharp while softening the other.

Stippling Brush

SIZE: 4 x 3 to 8 x 6in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle; Stock handle: hardwood

USE: To produce a texture on a painted surface

Stipplers are used to texture wet paint. A well textured surface hides many structural irregularities as well as obscuring the brush marks. The ends of the bristles do the actual work as the stippler strikes the wall. Keep the brush square to the work at all times, but keep on changing the angle of approach to achieve an even texture. Work in overlapping bands.

Stenciling Brush

SIZE: Diameter: 7/16 to 1-5/16in.

MATERIAL: Filling: horsehair, bristle; Binding: plated steel; Handle: hardwood

USE: To apply paint through a stencil

Using a stencil is the easiest method to paint a motif on a surface, especially if it is to be a repeat pattern.

Cut the shape from thick paper or thin cardboard, lay it fiat on a surface, and stipple with a stenciling brush. Do not move the stencil until the motif has been completed.

Using the stencil

Lightly strike the surface through the stencil with the ends of the bristles, which carry the paint.

Lining Tool

OTHER NAME: Lining fitch

SIZE: Width: 1/4 to 1-1/2in.; Thickness: 3/16 to 5/16in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, horsehair; Binding: plated steel; Handle: hardwood

USE: To paint straight lines

Painted straight lines are often needed either as decoration or to emphasize a particular area.

The lining tool is specially designed for use with a straight edge. The filling is bound in a rectangular ferrule and is cut at an angle at the end. The paint used should flow easily so that a line can be drawn in one pass, but not be so fluid that it begins to run.

Line up a straight edge, bevel side down, and run the brush against it. Keep the brush upright throughout.

Fitch

SIZE: Diametre: 1/8 to 13/16in;Width: 3/16 to 1-3/16in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle; Binding: plated steel; Handle: hardwood

USE: To paint fine detail

A fitch is used to paint small detaiis or narrow window Frames. It is available with round sectioned filling and ferrule, or with the ferrule aimped to flatten the filling.

Crevice Brush

OTHER NAME: Radiator brush

SIZE: 1 to 2in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle, mixed, synthetic; Binding: plated steel; Handle: steel, hardwood

USE: To paint in confined spaces

The crevice brush has the bound filling mounted at an angle on a long handle. It is used to apply paint in confined or awkward spaces, such as behind radiators, which could not be reached with a normal paint brush.

Tar Brush

SIZE: Diameter: 11 to 2in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle; fiber, mixed; Binding: plated steel, iron; Handle: hardwood

USE: To apply thick paints

The tar brush has a round splayed filling bound either to a short turned handle or to a pole-like handle, up to 4ft. long. It is used to apply pitchlike rust proofing paint to metal surfaces.

Smoothing Brush

OTHER NAME: Paper hanger's brush

SIZE: Width: 7-1/2 to 10in.

MATERIAL: Filling: bristle; Handle: hardwood

USE: To smooth pasted wallpaper on to the wall

The smoothing brush gives wallpaper a professional finish. Align the strip of paper with a plumbed line or butt it against the previous strip. Brush out lightly by hand, before using the brush. Use the edge of the brush to tap paper intc corners.

Using the brush

Work the brush systematically from the centre of the strip outward, smoothing out creases or air bubbles.

Paint Roller

SIZE: 7 to 13iin.

MATERIAL: Sleeve: lambs-wool, mohair, polyurethane foam, man-made fiber; Cage: steel and plastic; Handle: hardwood, plastic

USE: To apply paint over large areas

A good quality roller has different sleeves to cope with different paints or surfaces. The hollow sleeves slip on to an open wire cage which revolves on the end of the handle. The sleeves are easily removed for regular cleaning.

Lambswool sleeves are ideal for the application of latex paint. Short "nap" or pile wool is used on smooth surfaces like plaster, and long nap on textured surfaces like brick or cement. Man-made fibers can do the same job.

Mohair sleeves, covered with a very fine pile, are best for applying gloss paint.

Plastic foam rollers can be used with any paint, but are not as long lasting as the better quality rollers.

Rollers are charged by being rolled in paint poured into a special shallow metal or plastic tray. The roller is run on the sloping, textured surface of the tray to distribute the paint evenly over the sleeve. A metal tray may rust unless carefully washed and dried after use.

Special rollers

A long extension handle can be attached to some rollers to enable you to paint the ceiling while standing on the floor. Short rollers are useful to apply paint in restricted spaces. Shaped rollers are available for painting into corners.

Painting ceilings and walls

If the walls and ceiling are to be the same in color, rollers can be used throughout (except around the light fixtures). If you are using different colors, paint the edges of the ceiling with a brush before taking over with a roller. Work the roller in bands across the ceiling picking up the unfinished edges as quickly as possible. Do not let the roller spin at the end of a stroke as it might splatter paint. Paint the walls in the same way.

Preliminary brushwork

Starting near the window, paint the edges, corners and around light fixings where the roller cannot go.

Using the roller

Now switch to the roller, painting in one direction only.

Before the paint has a chance to dry take the roller across at right angles for even coverage. Pick up any unfinished edges.

Care of rollers

Removing excess paint

Roll out excess paint on to newspaper. Pour any paint left in the tray back into the can and wipe it out with a solvent-soaked rag.

Cleaning the sleeve

Pour the solvent into the tray and soak the roller. Wash both in warm soapy water, massaging the sleeve with your fingers to remove partially dissolved paint.

Drying and storing

Squeeze out the water from the sleeve and dry it with an absorbent rag. For long term storage wrap the sleeve in brown paper or foil.

Clean paint from the handle and cage and dry them with rags especially if you are about to use the roller immediately with a new color.

Seam Roller

OTHER NAME: Butt roller

SIZE: Width: 1 to 2in.

MATERIAL: Hardwood

USE: To press down the edges of pasted wallpaper

Use the seam roller to press down the butt-jointed edges of wallpaper to make sure that they are firmly stuck down. Wipe off any paste after use.

Smoothing Roller

SIZE: 3-1/2 to 7in.

MATERIAL: Roller: rubber, felt; Handle: hardwood

USE: To smooth down pasted wallpaper

A smoothing roller is used to roll out excess air and paste from paper pasted on the wall and to press the paper firmly onto the wall.

Rollers made from hard rubber are for general use, while rollers made from disks of felt mounted on a centre core are best for delicate, especially fiock-covered, paper.

Do not use a roller on embossed paper.

Scratch Brush

OTHER NAME: Welder's wire brush

SIZE: 11 to 13-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Bristles: steel wire; Handle/stock: hardwood

USE: To clean off flaking material

Scratch brushes are used to remove dirt, rust, or flaking paint from metal to take it back to the firm bright surface before it is treated for rust and repainted as required.

Some scratch brushes have a scraper fitted to the end of the stock to remove the loosened material from walls.

You can also use wire brushes to score the surface of vinyl wallpapers just before soaking them for stripping.

Rotary Wire Brushes

SIZE: Wheel diameter: 1 to 12in.; Cup brush diameter: 1/2 to 6in ; End brush diameter: 3/8 to 1-1/8in.

MATERIAL: Brass, steel

USE: To clean off flaking material and score metal

Coarse and fine rotary wire brushes are available in an enormous range of shapes and sizes. They are attached to a power drill and used to clean off flaking material or clean up metal, usually to provide a key for painting.

Wheel brushes should be used on a fixed, bench-mounted drill.

If you cannot take the work to the drill, use a cup brush, available flush or hollow faced, attached to a free drill.

End brushes are used to clean up metal in more confined spaces, and can be fitted in a flexible drive connected to a power drill. They are made in various lengths, with straight and flared bristles, and with flat or pointed ends.

Using the cup brush

Use cup brushes free-hand in the drill to clean up metal fixtures. Hold the drill firmly to prevent the action of the brush spinning it off the work.

Using the wheel brush

Use wire wheels with the drill mounted in a bench stand. With the wheel revolving toward you, hold the work against the brush slightly below centre.

Paint Sprayer

SIZE: 2 to 20 cubic feet per minute

MATERIAL: Various

USE: To apply flat even coats of paint

A paint sprayer produces a fine layer of paint whicu is generally more even than paint applied any other way, and also dries quickly. There are airless or compressed air sprayers.

Airless sprayers

These are probably the most convenient for domestic use. They are self-contained units fitted with an electric pump which forces the paint at high pressure through a small hole, breaking it up into a fine spray. The width of the spray cone and the delivery of paint can be adjusted to suit the painting of wide flat areas or small objects. The spray pattern is produced by the shape of the nozzle.

Compressed air sprayers

In these types, the paint is mixed with compressed air to atomize it. A compressor takes in air and compresses it either with a piston in a cylinder, a diaphragm or rotating blades. Compressors vary enormously in size and are driven electrically or by gasoline.

Some machines supply the compressed air directly to the gun. Others store it in a metal tank called a receiver, which delivers air to the gun as required and is topped up by the compressor when the pressure in the gun drops below functioning level.

Bleeder guns

A spray gun delivers the paint and compressed air to the work in the required proportions and controls the shape of the spray cone. In a bleeder gun, the compressed air may flow continuously through the gun, being bled off to relieve the pressure from the air hose and compressor when the gun is not in use. Non-bleeder guns have a valve which shuts off air as the trigger is released.

How spray guns work

As the trigger is depressed, it withdraws a needle from the outlet of the fluid tip where the paint cmmes out of the gun. The fluid tip is mounted with the air cap which directs the compressed air into the stream of paint. Air caps can be either internally or externally placed. The internal mix cap combines the paint and air before they are released from the gun.

It can be used with low pressure equipment, but the cone pattern cannot be controlled and it does not produce such a fine spray. With the external mix cap, the paint comes out from a central hole and is mixed with air from surrounding holes. This type of cap also has projecting horns which direct air from side portholes to produce a fan pattern.

Paint delivery

The paint is delivered by gravity, suction or pressure feed. Gravity fed guns simply have a container mounted on top of the gun. Suction fed guns have a specially designed air cap which produces a low vacuum at the fluid tip so that the paint is delivered by atmospheric pressure from a container slung underneath the gun. Pressure fed guns have a similar container, but the paint is forced out by compressed air. The container may be slung underneath the gun or be floor standing.

Preparation for spraying

Protect areas adjacent to the surface being painted. Use masking tape to givt a straight edge to the printed area, with newspaper covering the area behind the line. For large areas, tape, staple or weight down plastic sheets.

Ventilate interiors and extinguish naked flames. Wear goggles and a face mask.

Consistency of paint

It is a good idea to thin paint before spraying. It will be less likely to clog the fluid tip and will smoothe out after it is applied. Add the appropriate solvent and stir dioroughly to a smooth consistency that runs easily from the end of the stirring stick. Old paint which has developed a skin should be strained through cheesecloth in order to remove any lumps or particles.

Common faults

Spitting

Spitting is caused by dried out packing around the fluid needle valve. This allows air to enter the fluid passage ways, or dirt to seep between the fluid tip seat and body. Lubricate the dry packing with one or two drops of oil. Clean the fluid tip and seat and the body of the gun with a rag dampened with thinner. Replace the tip.

Spattering

An uneven, speckled application is caused by too much pressure on the paint or inefficient atomization. Adjust the sprayer accordingly.

Uneven pattern

A spray pattern that is heavy on one side or deflects to one side, is probably the result of uneven pressure produced by a blockage in an air hole. Clean with a rag dipped in thinner or clear with a fiber bristle.

Cleaning the spray gun

Pour any remaining paint from the container and spray the appropriate thinner through the gun until it comes out clear. Wipe the container clean with a rag dampened with solvent. Dismantle the air cap and fluid tip and wipe clean making sure that all holes are clear.

Using the gun

Using waste paint, adjust the gun to produce the desired shape and density of spray. Turn the air control screw clockwise to pro dues a narrow cone or counter clockwLj to spread the cone. As the cone is increased, the fluid control screw must be adjusted to increase the paint flow. The fan pattern gives maximum coverage. It is produced by the position of the air cap horns. Set horizontally they will make a vertical fan. Set vertically, they produce a horizontal fan.

Hold the gun 8 to 10in. from the surface and move it in steady parallel passes. Direct the spray off the work at each end, at the same time releasing the trigger to prevent a buildup of paint. Slightly overlap each pass to give an even cover.

Right way

Aim the gun directly at the wall, keeping it the same distance throughout the pass.

Wrong way

Do not spray in an arc: you will produce light coverage at each end of the sweep.

Painting a flat surface

To spray a horizontal surface, start at one end. Work away from you, while aiming the spray at 45° to the surface. Keep it at the same distance from the surface throughout.