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Chisels and Gouges

Tools with narrow cutting edges were used for making mortises in the Late Stone, the Bronze and Early Iron Ages. Medieval carpenters also used the "former", a chisel with a wide, flared blade, for rough shaping. From the sixteenth century onward, general purpose chisels were made which were stouter and had parallel sides. These were called "firmer chisels", as they could also be used with the mallet. Carpenters also had longer, thinner tools called "paring chisels", for hand use only. Special types such as the "beveled edge" and "lock-mortise" chisels and the "bolting iron" were developed later by cabinetmakers and other craftsmen for particular purposes. For turning work on pole lathes, a wide range of chisels and gouges has been available since the Iron Age.

Modern chisels are fitted with smoothly curved bulbous handles, usually round in section and domed at the end for a comfortable grip. These are made from boxwood or impact-resistant plastic, aithough traditional shaped handles such as the "London Pattern" are still available made in ash.

Firmer Chisel

OTHER NAME: Wood chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/8 to 2in,

MATERIAL: Blade: steel, Handle: ash, beech, boxwood, plastic

USE: To trim and chop wood

The firmer chisel is a general purpose wood-cutting tol with a blade approximately 4in. long and rectangular in section. The blade has parallel sides and tapers slightly from the bolster to the cutting edge. Common widths of blade range from 1/8 in. to 3/4in. increasing in 1/8in. steps, and 1in. to 1-1/2in. increasing in 1/4in. steps. Chisels up to 2in. wide are also available, For most domestic uses, a selection of chisels including 1/4in., 1/2in., 3/4in. and 1in. widths should be sufficient.

Because the firmer chisel has a stout blade it can be driven with a mallet. Use only wooden or soft faced mallets on wooden handles; a hammer may be used on the plastic ones.

Beveled Edge Firmer Chisel

OTHER NAME: Butt chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/8 to 2in.

MATERIAL: Blade: alloy steel; Handle: ash, beech, boxwood, plastic

USE: Light general woodworking

The beveled edge chisel is identical to the firmer chisel in all respects except that the blade is beveled on the top face of the two long sides. This reduces the rigidity of the blade, making it suitable only for lighter woodworking. It is not intended for use with a mallet, but light tapping is tolerated. Because of the beveled edge, the chisel can be used to work undercuts such as in dovetail housing.

Paring Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/4in.. to 1-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Blade: alloy steel; Handle: boxwood

USE: To pare long housings

The paring chisel has a comparatively long blade, about 7in., and can be either of the firmer or the beveled edge type. It is used to trim long grooves such as those in stair or shelf construction.

All-Steel Wood Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/2in., 3/4in., 1in., 1-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: Carpentry work

The all-steel chisel has a short, beveled edge blade and a hexagonal handle. The end of the handle is formed into a slightly domed mushroom shape so it can be easily driven with a hammer. This is a very strong chisel, suitable for heavy carpentry work.

Using wood chisels

Wood chisels are designed to trim wood and clear the waste from joints. Start within the waste area and work toward the previously maiked line - if the first cut is made on the line, the bevel can force the cutting edge beyond. Make the last cut on the line with the cutting bevel facing away.

Paring

When paring f removing the waste in thin layers) hold the blade betwten the thumb and forefinger, resting the hand on the bench or against the work piece to steady it. This allows you to align the cutting edge accurately and control the speed at which the chisel is driven. With the other hand, apply pressure to the handle, striking the end with the heel of your hand for extra force.

Many jobs only need hand pressure, but when considerable force is needed to drive the chisel, use a mallet.

Getting more power

If you need more force use the shoulder to assist the hand.

 

Firmer Gouge

SIZE: Blade width:1/4in.. 1/8in., 1/2in., 5/8in., 3/4in., 1in.

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: boxwood, ash

USE: To cut hollow or curved shoulders

The firmer gouge is similar to the firmer chisel, but it has a blade which is curved in cross section. The blade is usually about 4in. long and has parallel sides like its chisel counterpart. The common sizes are 1/4in. to 1in., although larger sizes are made with standard curves.

There are two types of blade: those with the cutting bevel ground on the outside, known as out-cannel, and those ground on the inside, known as in-cannel. Both have square cutting edges, though the out-cannel is sometimes rounded for deep hollow cutting.

Out-cannel gouges

These are used to cut concave shapes such as finger pulls for a drawer or flaps for a leaf-table. The blade is used as a lever on the ground bevel ■when making a scalloped cut.

In-cannel gouges

The in-cannel gouge is used to make straight cuts which are curved in section, such as when scribing the shoulder of a tenon to meet a mortise in a round leg.

Paring Gouge

OTHER NAME: Scribing gouge

SIZE: Blade width: 1/4in., to 1-1/4in.

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; handle; boxwood

USE: To shape wood

The paring gouge is a lighter, elongated version of the in-cannel firmer gouge. The 7in. blade, which has parallel sides, is usually fitted with a carving pattern handle. The neck may be straight, or cranked to raise the handle above the work to let the hand clear the surface. The gouge is generally used for hand paring without the aid of a mallet, unlike the in-cannel firmer gouge. Its range of different curved sections for a given width gives it greater flexibility for cutting curved shapes of all kinds.

Mortise Chisel

OTHER NAME: Joiner's mortise chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/2in., 5/8in., 3/4in.

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: beech

USE: To cut large mortises

The mortise chisel has a thick, stiff blade for clearing out waste and wide side edges that help to keep the chisel square in the mortise. The bolster is oval as is the handle: a leather shock-absorbing washer is often fitted between them. The handle has a wide curved end specially designed to be hit with a mallet.

Sash Mortise Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/4in., 5/16in., 3/8in., 1/2in.

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: boxwood, ash, beech

USE: Light carpentry work in softwood

The sash mortise chisel is similar in use to the mortise chisel, but is intended for lighter work. It is usually fitted with a carved turning pattern handle with a single ferrule and a leather shock-absorbing washer between it and the bolster.

Registered Mortise Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 3/4in. to 1-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Blade; steel; Handle: ash

USE: To work hardwood

The registered mortise chisel is distinguished from the firmer type by its handle. This is made of hardwood with a traditional shape but it has two ferrules, one against the bolster, the other at the striking end. It is meant to be used with a mallet, and the end ferrule prevents the woGd from splitting. A shock-absorbent leather washer is fitted between the bolster and the handle.

Lock Mortise Chisel

OTHER NAME: Swan neck mortise chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 7/16in., to 5/8in.

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: beech

USE: To remove waste from deep mortises

The lock mortise chisel is specially designed for cutting deep blind recesses, such as for door mortise locks. The long, square sectioned blade has an upturned cutting edge with a curved thickened knee on the underside, so that it can be used to lever out waste. The chisel is fitted with a socket type handle.

Drawer Lock Chisel

OTHER NAMES: Bolt chisel, bolting iron, lock bolt chisel

SIZE:6in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut lock recesses

The drawer lock chisel is used for cutting housings or mortises for locks where there is not enough room to use a conventional chisel. It is a square sectioned steel bar, cranked at right angles at both ends. Each end is tapered and ground to a sharp edge. One cutting edge is set parallel with the long axis of the tool, the other is set at right angles to it.

The cutting edge is positioned on the work and its back is struck with a hammer. In a confined space the side of the hammer may have to be used.

Cutting a mortise

Mark out the width of the mortise with a mortise gauge set to the width of the chisel. Use a chisel that is one third the width of the rail or leg, whichever is smaller. Do not try to drive the chisel too deep at one stroke: the wood could split or the chisel could get stuck in the workpiece.

1. Hold the chisel upright in the centre of the marked mortise, the bevel facing away from you. Strike the end with a mallet to cut across the grain.

 

2. Gradually work back toward one end of the mortise stopping 1/8in. from the line.

3. Start at the centre again and work back toward the other end of the mortise.

4. Clean out the waste and repeat until the required depth is reached.

5. Finally chop the remaining 1/8in. of waste from both ends of the mortise. Cut a through mortise from both sides. Pare away any waste from the sides of mortise with the widest chisel you have.

Making a chisel rack

Nail two wood strips together, leaving a slit wide enough for the chisel blade, and mount a plastic shield on the rack.

Maintenance

Keep chisels sharp. A blunt edge will not leave a clean cut and unnecessary force will be needed to drive it. This could limit the amount of control and be dangerous to the user.

Store chisels in racks so the cutting edges do not become dulled or chipped by knocking against other tools. If the chisels are not to be used frequently, give the blades a light oiling to prevent rust,

Never use a metal hammer to drive a chisel unless it has been specially designed to take the force, otherwise you will damage the handle. Damaged chisel handles can be reshaped with a file.

Ripping Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1-1/2 to 2in.; Length: 18in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To split boards

The ripping chisel is like a ripping bar, but it has a wider and sharper chisel end. It is made from a hexagonal sectioned steel bar, and is either straight with a single cutting edge or goose necked and notched at one end for nail-pulling. It is use- for rough work, such as splitting boards along the grain or levering nailed boards apart. To split a board, drive the chisel into the end following the grain.

Floor Board Chisel

OTHER NAME: Electrician's chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 2-1/2 to 2-3/4in.; Length: 8 to 12in.;

MATERIAL: Alloy steel

USE: To cut and lift floor boards

The floor board chisel has a wide spade-shaped blade and an integral octagonal handle.

The end of the handle is either tapered, or mushroom shaped so it can be driven efficiently with a hammer.

This chisel is used by professionals to cut through the tongues in tongue and groove flooring and for levering up boards. The wide blade spreads the load to prevent damage to adjacent boards.

Glazier's Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 2in.

MATERIAL: Blade: alloy steel; Handle: plastic

USE: To remove old putty from window frames

The glazier's chisel is a strong firmer type chisel with a wide blade. Sometimes a steel cap is fitted into the plastic handle so it can be driven with a hammer.

Wood Turning Tools

Wood turning chisels and gouges are specifically made for lathe work, where the force is applied across the blade rather than along its length. A wood turning tool is extra long, and has a thick blade and long tang without a bolster. It is fitted with a long turned hardwood handle with a bulbous section behind the brass ferrule which tapers and then flares slightly toward the end. This long handle provides the necessary leverage for delicate control. Tools for heavy work may have extra long handles which can be tucked under the arm to give maximum leverage and control.

Turning tools are held in both hands, with the blade resting on the part of the lathe known as a tool rest. One hand, knuckles uppermost, grips the blade close to the cutting edge and controls the speed and direction of the tool along the rest. The other handgrips the handle and steadies the tool against the turning work.

Wood Turning Gouge

SIZE: Blade: 3/8in., 1/2in., 5/8in., 3/4in., 1in; Length: 16-1/2in. (standard), 13-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: ash

USE: To size turned work roughly

The standard wood turning gouge is ground on the outside and has a square or round cutting edge. Gouges are generally used for roughing or quickly sizing the work. The square type is normally used for turning down work between lathe centres- The lin. gouge is recommended for the first cut. It moves along the tool rest with the bottom part of the cutting edge doing the work. The resulting finish is usually a ribbed cut, which needs to be cleaned up afterward with a turning chisel.

Using the square nosed gouge

Place the blade on the tool rest. Holding the tool at right angles to the work, turn it partly on edge in the direction of the cut.

Using the round nosed gouge

77ms is generally used for turning hollow work, such as bowls or shaped spindles. The absence of corners prevents the cutting edge from digging in and damaging the work.

Wood Turning Chisel

SIZE: Blade: 3/8in., 1/2in., 5/8in., 3/4in., 1in; Length: 16-1/2in. (standard), 13-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: ash

USE: To smooth work after rough sizing

The wood turning chisel has a flat blade with a square or angled cutting edge. It is ground on both sides, so it can cut with a slicing action and move in either direction along the work. These chisels are used to make smooth finishing cuts, cutting the shoulders of square sinkings and forming beads.

Using the chisel

Hold the blade flat on the rest, or slightly tilted in the direction of the cut. With the tool rest set correctly, the cut should be near the work's top.

Round Nosed Chisel

SIZE: Blade: 1/2in., 3/4n., 1in Length: 16-1/2in. (standard), 13-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: ash

USES: To cut coves and shape work

Making a cut

Make the cut with the cutting bevel in contact with the work, using only the lower to middh portion of the cutting edge. The point of the chisel must always be clear of the work, otherwise the tool might grab and damage the work.

The round nosed chisel has a flat rectangular blade and is ground into a round cutting edge with a single bevel. It cuts with a scraping action and it is one of the simplest tools you can use for cutting concave shapes for decorative work, or a variety of mouldings.

Using the chisel

Hold the tool flat on the rest with the cutting edge level with the centre of the work. Mouldings are easily cut by advancing the chisel into the work. Wider forms can be made by pivoting the blade from left to right on the rest.

Diamond Point Chisel

OTHER NAME: Spear point chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/2in.,3/4in., 1in.; Length: 16-1/2in. (standard) 131/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: Steel;

Handle: ash

USE: To cut "V" grooves and square shoulders

Like the round nosed chisel, the diamond point has a flat rectangular blade ground on one side. It cuts with a scraping action, but the cutting edge is V-shaped. The point is usually ground to an included angle of 90 , which makes it useful for cleaning up squared shoulders.

Parting Tool

SIZE: Blade width: 3/16in.; Length 16-1/2in. (standard), 13-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: ash

USE: To cut to length

Using the chisel

Hold the diamond point chisel on the lathe in the same way as the round nosed chisel. (These chisels can be ground to other shapes for various kinds of moulding work.)

The parting tool is made in only one blade width. It is usually rectangular in section, but some are faceted on the two side faces. The blade is square ground to make a long point and it is used on edge as a narrow chisel. The parting tool is primarily used for parting or cutting the finished work from the waste and for squaring off the work end.

Using the parting tool

Parting tool position

Hold the tool at right angles to the work with the handle lowered. Lift the handle to allow the edge to make the cut; the depth of cut will depend on the diameter of the work. Finish with a fine saw using the groove cut by the chisel as a guide. Trim the sawn end with a wood chisel.

Carving Gouge

SIZE: Blade width: 1/8in., to 1in.;

Length: 9-1/2m. (large), 8in. (medium), 6-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: beech, ash, rosewood, plastic

USE: Preliminary shaping

The carving gouge is similar to the firmer gouge, but it is lighter and available in a wide range of curved sections. All carving gouges are out-canneled, that is ground on the outside face. The carving gouge has a blade about 4in. long with a thin round or square neck and a neat bolster. The blade may have parallel sides or taper toward the bolster, which gives greater clearance for working wood carvings.

Handles are usually of the carving pattern, turned from hardwood, with a single brass ferrule. Earlier types were often octagonal in section.

STRAIGHT GOUGE

This type of gouge has straight blade in line with the handle. Do not use it on concave surfaces.

CURVED GOUGE (Bent gouge)

The curved gouge has an upturned curve in the length of the blade. It is used for working wide concave hollows.

SPOON BIT GOUGE

(Front faent gouge)

This is similar to the curved gouge, but it has a very sharply defined curve on the front section of the blade only. It is used to work small, deep recesses.

VEINER

The veiner is an extremely fine straight bladed gouge with a U-shaped cutting edge and tall parallel sides. It is used for fine detail carving.

Using a mallet

Carving gouges may be lightly driven with a beechwood carver's mallet.

Unaided carving

Like most wood carving tools, carving gouges are worked with hand pressure only,

Carving Chisel

SIZE: Blade width: 1/4in., to 1/2in.;

Length: 9-1/2in. (large), 8in. (medium), 6-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: beech, ash, rosewood, plastic

USE: To shape and finish

STRAIGHT CHISEL

The straight carving chisel has a flat, rectangular blade ground on both faces and either a square or skewed cutting edge. The honing and grinding angles are run together to form a curved cutting bevel. The cutting edge rides on the curved bevel, which helps prevent it digging in too deeply. The skew type is used for undercuts or detail that is inaccessible to the square chisel.

CURVED CHISEL (Bent chisel)

This chisel is about the same size as the curved gouge and is used to finish the scalloped surface produced by the gouge. A curved chisel is ground on the underside only.

SPOON BIT CHISEL

This is used to finish work after preliminary shaping by the spoon bit gouge.

Parting Tool

OTHER NAME: "V" tool SIZE: Blade width: 1/4 to 1/2in.; Length: 9-1/2in. (large), 8in. (medium), 6-1/2in. (small)

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Handle: beech, ash, rosewood, plastic

USE: To make grooves

The parting tool has a V-shaped cutting edge and is available with different included angles. Like the sharp cornered gouge it is ground on the outside faces, and is made with straight or curved blades. It is used for grooving and for making square cornered cutouts.

Cold Chisel

OTHER NAME: Flat chisel

SIZE: Length: 5 to 8-1/4in.; Long pattern: 12 to 18in.; Bit width: 1/4 to 1in.

MATERIAL: Steel USE: To cut metal

The cold chisel is used in various trades for rough cutting cold metal, where other tools such as snips or hacksaws are unsuitable. It can be used in a number of ways: to chip away waste material from solid stock prior to filing; cutting through ground stock such as chain links; cutting sheet metal; and cutting off rivet or bolt heads.

The chisel is made from hexagonal sectioned steel, and has a flat, wedge shaped bit that is slightly wider than the shank. The cutting edge is ground on both sides to an included angle of 60° and is slightly curved across its width. The head is chamfered to reduce burring from continuous hammering. Maintain the chamfer to prevent chips of metal flying off as it is struck with a hammer.

Using the cold chisel

The tool is held in the same way for all types of work. The forefingers grip the stock with the thumb either tucked under or covering the index finger.

To chip

When chipping, present the cutting edge to the face of the workpiece at an angle. This will determine the depth of cut. Use a ball peen hammer to drive the tool.

To cut round stock

Place the workpiece on a firm support, such as an anvil, and hold the chisel upright on the marked cutting line. Strike the chisel with a heavy hammer to chop through. Cut halfway through then reverse the workpiece and finish from the other side.

To cut sheet or plate metal

Fix it in a vise with the marked cutting line level with the jaws. Hold the chisel at approximately 45 to the face of the plate and 30 from horizontal, with the lower ground bevel resting on the top of the vise against the edge of the workpiece. Drive the chisel along the vise with even hammer blows, slicing through the plate as you go. For larger sheet cutting rest the metal on aflat work surface with the marked line level with the edge.

To cut rivets

Position the chisel against the side of the rivet head, with the bottom ground bevel level with the surface and drive the chisel with a ball peen hammer. Cut bolt heads in the same way, or first cut down from the top, then hit from the side. Split nuts by cutting down on one or both sides.

Cape Chisel

OTHER NAME: Cross cut chisel

SIZE: Length: 6-3/4 to 8-1/4in.; Bit width: 1/4 to 1/2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut grooves in metal or masonry

The cape chisel is used for making narrow cuts or grooves in metal or masonry. It has 3 deep wedge shaped bit, which is narrower than the hexagonal sectioned stock. When new, the blade is parallel sided with a slight flair at the tip and is ground on the upper and lower faces to 60°. The extra depth stiffens the narrow cutting edge of the tool.

Round Nosed Chisel

OTHER NAME: Haif round chisel

SIZE: Length: 6-3/4 to 8-1/4in.; Bit width: 1/4 to 1/2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut grooves and to reposition a misaligned hole centre

The round nosed chisel is similar to the cape chisel, but has a semi-circular cutting edge with a single cutting bevel ground on the top face.

Rivet Buster

SIZE: Length: 12in.; Bit width: 5/8in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut rivets

This is a heavy chisel, similar to the diamond point in overall shape but with a wider, single ground flat cutting edge. It is used specifically for cutting through rivet heads.

Diamond Point Chisel

SIZE: Length: 6-3/4 to 8-1/4in.; Bit width: 1/4 to 1/2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut "V" grooves and clean corners in metal

The hexagonal sectioned stock of the diamond point chisel is formed into a four sided taper, which is single ground across a diagonal to make a diamond shaped cutting face.

Brick Chisel

OTHER NAMES: Brick bolster, bricklayer's cold chisel

SIZE: Length: 7 to 7-1/2n.; Cutting edge width: 3 to 4in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut bricks

The brick chisel has a very wide spade shaped bit, an integral hexagonal sectioned handle and a cutting edge ground on both sides. It is held in the same way as the metal cutting cold chisel and is used with a club hammer to cut bricks.

Cutting a brick

Position the cutting edge of the chisel on one face of the brick, holding the chisel at right angles. Strike the chisel with a hammer hard enough to leave a cut line. Repeat on the other brick faces so that the cut lines meet all around. On wider bricks or blocks make a series of cuts to form a line, then realign she chisel on the cot line and drive it with heavier blows.

Plugging Chisel

OTHER NAME: Seam drill

SIZE: Length: 10in.; Point width: 1/4in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To cut grooves and plug holes in masonry

The plugging chisel is used with a club hammer to cut away the mortar between brickwork to allow for fixing wooden plugs. These are wide, flat wedges set in the brickwork to receive fixings for door frame linings, window frames and so on. It is an all-steel chisel with an octagonal stock and a long flat bit, which is rectangular in section. The bit is skewed and is available plain or fluted.

Chisels for Masonry Work

Mason's chisels are of an all-steel construction and generally have an hexagonal sectioned stock. The stock may have parallel sides or taper toward the head. Like cold chisels, mason's chisels are available with comcally ground heads for striking with a hammer or slightly domed, mushroom shaped heads for use with a wooden mallet. Generally, the hammer pattern is used for initial rough cutting and the mallet pattern for lighter finishing work.

Point

OTHER NAME: Punch

SIZE: 8 to 10in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To rough finish stone

The point and the punch are basically the same tool. The punch is a heavier version of the point. Both are used in the preliminary stages of smoothing rough stone by concentrating the hammering force to shatter the stone locally. The stock of the tool is hexagonal in section and ground to a four sided blunt point.

Mason's Bolster

SIZE: Bit width: 2 to 3in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To chisel wide surfaces

The mason's bolster is a wide chisel with a short bit and a cutting bevel ground on both sides. It can be used to smooth wide flat surfaces or to split blocks like a brick chisel.

Tooler

SIZE: Blade width: 3in. or over

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To chisel wide surfaces

The tooler is the same as the mason's bolster, but has a wider bit and a heavier stock.

Mason's Carving Chisels and Gouges

SIZE: Bit width: 1/4in., 3/8in., 1/2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To finely shape and finish stone

Mason's carving chisels and gouges are craftsmen's tools for the final dressing and decoration of stone. They have slim hexagonal sectioned stocks, which taper down to the short bit and to the head. This shape makes the tool comfortable to hold, while its slim form allows it to reach into restricted spaces. Both tools are made with the hammer or mallet type head.

Chisels are ground on both sides, Gouges are ground on the outside face only,

Mason's Scutch Holder:

OTHER NAME: Claw

SIZE: Scutch width: 1in., 1-1/2in., 2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To finish stone 

The mason's scutch holder is a special chisel type tool, which looks similar to the mason's bolster but is made to hold a replaceable cutting edge called a scutch.                 

The holder has an hexagonal stock and a mallet pattern head. The double sided scutch can be plain or toothed

The scutch tool is used to prepare flat surfaces. It follows the point chisel to reduce the uneven surface into a series of shallow furrows for further finishing with a plain chisel. Work diagonally across the surface, away from the edge.

Hold the scutch at 45° and drive with a wooden mallet. Slightly overlap the cut .

Mason's Chisel

SIZE: Bit width: 1/2 to 2in. MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To shape and smooth stone

This chisel is used to smooth the rippled surface left by the scutching tool prior to rubbing with a carborundum stone. The narrow chisel is sometimes known as an "edging-in" chisel. It gets the name from the process used to split blocks of stone.

Using the chisel

With the aid of a straight edge, use the chisel to score two parallel lines, jin. apart, all around the block.

Cut a deep "V" groove between the marked lines to weaken the block. Split the block by holding a brick chisel or bolster in the groove and striking it hard as you move it along to cut around the whole block.

Pitching Tool

SIZE: Bit width: 1-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Steel

USE: To trim soft stone

The pitching tool is like the bolster, but the bit is single ground at a steep angle. It is used to remove excess material from slabs of sandstone.

With the finished cut line established with the edging chisel, the waste is cut away in layers using the pitching tool. A layer 1in. thick can be removed from limestone and up to 1-1/2in. from sandstone.

Using the pitching tool

Hold the chisel against the stone with the cutting edge parallel to the line, at an angle slightly less than 90° to the face of the stone. Strike the chisel with a club hammer to remove the stone in strips.

Retrieved from the CD3WD project.
Rebuilt and re-compiled to be useable by