Needles and Skewers
Needles are extremely ancient tools, starting life about 14,000 years ago as bone, flint or thorn awls used to punch holes in animal hides. Later a notch was incorporated to carry thread, and by the Bronze Age, the eye had been developed. The Romans used bronze needles and steel needles, probably from China, were brought to Europe by the Moors in the Middle Ages.
Upholsterer's Needle
SIZE: Length: 4 to 16in. Gauge: 15 to 11
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: General upholstery sewing
Upholstery needles can be round or bayonet pointed, and are usually double ended, either with two round point two bayonet points or one of each. Use bayonet points for stitching edges of rolls. For heavy duty work use a mattress needle, a tougher version of the upholsterer's needle.
Needles are measured by gauge as well as length. The higher the gauge number, the thinner the needle.
Upholsterer's Skewer
SIZE: 3 to 4in.
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: To bind upholstery temporarily in place
The skewer is used to ancor upholstery work in place while adjustments are made for it before final tacking, sewing or gluing, or while preliminary stitchng is done.
Upholsterer's Regulator
SIZE: 6 to 12in.
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: To adjust stuffing
The upholsterer's regulator is spiked at one end and paddle-shaped at the other to make it easy to hold. It is poked through the burlap covering and used to smooth out or redistribute the stuffing.
Half Circular Needle
SIZE, Length: 2 to 6in.; Gauge: 17 to 14
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: For general upholstery work inaccessible to straight needles
Half circular needles are the most useful, as nearly all upholstery work is done in confined places or at awkward angles. Curved needles make it easy to sew on flat or on fixed surfaces. They usually have a bayonet point.
Sewing at awkward angles
The half circular needle carries the thread easily through the stitch where the material itself cannot be manipulated.
Repairing an edge tear
Half circular needles are particularly useful for repairing tears near a piped edge. The stitching technique is called "frenching".
1. Fold the far edge of the tear under 1/4in. Secure the torn edge close to the piping with upholsterer's skewers. (Darning needles make a reasonable substitute.) Thread the needle with upholsterer's twine, knotted at the end.
2. Starting at the botton end of the tear, push needle up through cover and back again.
3. Take needle back 1/4in. Push it under piping to outside edge. Make another stitch through side cover just below piping.
4. Pull thread tightly to close tear. Push needle back up under piping and pull thread tight. Pass needle through the torn cover and then back under piping. Pull thread again. Continue process, removing skewers as you go, taking stitching about 1/2in. beyond tear.
Sail Needle
SIZE: Length: 2-1/2 to 5in.; Gauge: 18 to 6
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: To make and repair sails
Sail needles are extremely strong, chunky needles with large rectangular eyes. They are used with a leather sail-maker's palm, which makes it easier to push them through canvas.
Mending a sail
Double the twine and grease it with a candle. Push the needle up one side of the tear from below, take the twine across the hole and push the needle down through the other side.
Bring the needle up through the tear, across the stitch just made and start again, continuing to the end of the tear. Protect the repaired slit with beeswax or candle grease.
Leather Needle
SIZE: Length: 2 to 7in.; Gauge: 18 to 14
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: To sew leather
The curved leather needle has a bayonet point and is used for stitching leather to make bags, shoes, saddles etc.
There are also flat leather lacing needles which have a triangular shaped eye to take lacing thongs.
Spring Needle
SIZE: Length: 4 to 6in.; Gauge: 10
MATERIAL: Steel
USE: To attach springs to webbing
The spring needle is a stout, curved needle used to sew springs to upholstery webbing and burlap. It can also be used where a half circular needle would be the right shape but not strong enough. Use strong, six-cord spring twine for attaching springs.
Springing
Whether you are springing a new chair or repairing an old one, make sure the springs are fixed upright to the webbing and in straight lines in all directions. To avoid damage, vise a blanket-covered workbench for all upholstery work,
Fixing new springs
With the chair (or stool) upside down on the bench, arrange the springs, bottoms up, roughly in position. Nail the webbing to the chair frame using the webbing stretcher.
Lace the strips of webbing which go from front to back securely under each spring in the row. Interlace the side-to-side webbing, making sure that the strips cross over above a spring. Stitch the springs to the webbing at the junction of the two webbing strips, using three or four fixing ties for each spring, depending on the size of the spring and the dimensions of the chair itself.
Securing the webbing
After threading the webbing through the springs, pull it tight and tack to the frame,
Thread the spring needle with twine, and stitch down the first spring. Begin with a slip knot. Without tying off the threads, move on to the adjacent spring and repeat the sequence. Work from front to back and tie off the last spring with a double knot. Trim the twine.
Turn the chair upright and secure the tops of the springs. Cover with burlap, tacked to the top edges of the seat frame. Leave 1in. surplus all around. Sew the tops of the springs to the burlap as before.
Stitching the springs
Stitch the spring at equidistant points with a half-hitch or other strong knot. At the end of the operation the spring should be anchored to both strips of webbing.
Tying springs
Larger chairs (nine springs or more) will need the springs to be additionally tied in with strong, soft twine.
Turn the chair over. Secure a length of twine to the back of the seat frame with a tack. Tie each spring with two knots. Tack the twine to the front rail. Follow the sequence below.
Do not compress the springs more than 2in. below their free-standing height, as this makes an uncomfortable seat.
Cover the springs with burlap and continue as before.
Tying sequence
Beginning with the middle row work toward the front, tying the top of each spring. Tie each side row, then work across the chair, following the same order.
Repairing springs
Turn the chair upside down and take off the burlap and webbing, using an old chisel and mallet to remove tacks. Note the position of the old springs, and replace any if necessary. Then dust the inside thoroughly and proceed as for new springs.
