Planes

Greek carpenters probably had both bench and moulding planes, but the earliest known tools of this type are Roman, dating from the first century. The bench planes, about the size of a small jack, have iron soles and side plates riveted to a wooden stock, with the sloping iron wredged against a bar across the mouth.

During the Middle Ages most carpenters' planes had wooden stocks, but small metal smoothers were also used, mainly by instrument makers and the like. Down to the eighteenth centur all craftsmen made their own planes, but from about 1710 some of them began to specialize in making these tools for others. Close co-operation between the skilled tradesmen and the specialist tool makers brought many improvements, including the standardization of the length of moulding planes at 9-1/2in.

German wooden plane: with screw adjusted rather than hand adjusted blade.

Dating from about 1760-70 bench planes were first provided with double irons. In 1840, bench planes were made with steel or gunmetal soles and ingenious screw devices were introduced to regulate the cut of the iron and the size of the mouth. About twenty years later the Stanley-Bailey metal planes were first marketed.

 

Jack Plane

OTHER NAME: Fore plane

SIZE: Metal: Length: 14 to 15in.; Cutting iron width: 2-3/8in.; Wooden: Length: 14 to 18in.; Cutting iron width: 2in.

MATERIAL: Metal: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel; Handle knob: wood; Wooden: Body: beech or boxwood; Cutting iron: steel

USE: To dimension lumber

Most surviving wooden jack planes have a simple rectangular section body or stock, and are fitted with an open, shaped handle also known as the toat. The later patterns are fitted with a cap iron screwed to the cutting iron, like a modern metal bench plane. The cutting iron is held in place by a wooden wedge. The usual angle or "pitch" of die cutting iron is 45° and the cutting bevel faces downward.

The modern metal jack plane works like a wooden plane, but has the added advantage of a hard-wearing sole and a method of fine adjustment so it can be used as a general bench plane.

Smoothing Plane

OTHER NAMES: Smooth plane, coffin plane (wooden)

SIZE: Metal: Length: 9 to 10-1/4in.; Cutting iron width: 1-3/4 to 2-3/8in.; Wooden: Length: 6-1/2 to 9in.; Cutting iron width: 1-1/2 to 2-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Metal: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel; Handle: knob: wood; Wooden: Body: beech or boxwood; Sole: part or whole hardwood; Cutting iron: steel

USE: To smooth plane lumber

Wooden smoothing planes have no handle, but are tapered at the front and back to provide a comfortable grip. The resulting shape accounts for the name "coffin" plane. The cutting iron is mounted in the same way as the jack plane. A finely set smoothing plane is used for the final cleaning up and surfacing of lumber.

Like all bench planes, the modern smoothing plane was developed here in America, and now follows the one basic design, differing only in size.

Jointer Plane

OTHER NAMES: Trying plane, try plane, long plane

SIZE: Metal: Length: 22 to 24in.; Cutting iron width: 2-3/8 to 2-5/8in.; Wooden: Length: 20 to 30in.; Cutting iron width: 2-1/4 to 2-3/4in

MATERIAL: Metal: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel; Handlejknob: wood; Wooden: Body: beech or boxwood; Cutting iron: steel

USE: To square long edges of lumber usually for jointing

Jointer planes originally comprised a group of planes named according to their length. They are constructed in the same way as the jack plane except that the handle is normally closed. The metal versions are identical to other bench planes except for their length.

Adjusting bench planes

Smoothing planes, jack planes and jointers are bench planes. They are dismantled in the same way, although the method of adjusting wooden planes differs from that of adjusting metal ones.

The cutting iron assembly in a wooden plane is held firmly in place by a wooden wedge. The wedge and cutting iron assembly can be removed and dismantled for sharpening. The wedge of a jack plane is "shocked" to loosen it by striking the top of the toe end with a mallet or by striking the plane itself on a bench. A hardwood "striking button" is sometimes set into the stock to protect it from damage. A smoothing plane wedge is loosened by striking the rear end of the body.

After sharpening, the plane is reassembled in the reverse order and the wedge tapped in to secure the cutting iron.

The cutting iron is removed by releasing the lever on the lever cap, sliding it from under The screw head and lifting out the cutting iron assembly. Undo the locking screw to separate the cap iron from the cutting iron.

Replacing the cap iron

With the cap iron at right angles to the cutting iron, locate the screw head with the hole in the blade with the bevel facing away from you. Slide the cap iron away from the edge.

Locking the cap iron

Turn it until both irons are parallel. Tighten the locking screw when the edge of the cap iron is 1/16in. from the edge of the blade. This gap can be reduced to 1/64in, for very fine work.

Testing the assembly

Make sure that the edge of the cap iron lies flat on the cutting iron to prevent shavings jamming. A properly adjusted cap iron will break the shaving curling from out of ihe throat.

Replacing the cutting iron

Replace the cutting iron assembly in the plane, bevel downward, locating the slots in the cutting iron on the lateral adjustment lever and the adjusting screw, and replace the lever cap. Adjust the lever cap screw to get the exact tension. Fine adjustment is made by sighting down the sole of the plane from the toe, and turning the adjusting screw until the edge of the blade protrudes.

The blade will show up clearly as a dark line against the shine of the sole. Use the lateral adjustment lever to level the edge with the mouth of the plane, and back off the adjustment screw until the blade protrudes just enough to achieve the required depth of cut.

The mouth of the plane can also be adjusted by loosening the frog fixing screws and turning the adjusting screws. For a coarse cut, open the mouth; for a fine cut close it. The settings of the mouth and cutting iron should be related: a finely set mouth used with a coarsely set iron would soon become clogged with shavings.

Maintenance

Store planes on their side with the cutting iron withdrawn into the mouth. If the tool is to be stored for a long time, dismantle the parts and clean off any dust or resin. Lightly grease any bright metal parts to prevent rusting. Except for the sole, wooden planes will benefit from an occasional coat of clear varnish.

Using bench planes

Make sure that the plane is sharp and properly adjusted before using. Wood must be held securely during all operations. Use vise or bench stops.

Planing an edge

Use the longest plane available to true up a long edge. A short, smoothing plane could just follow the contours of the work-piece whereas a jointer will bridge any gaps.

Use a long plane for accurate results on a long edge

A short plane reinforces existing contours.

Keeping a narrow edge square

Prevent the plane from rocking by holding the edge of the plane with the forward hand, using the fingers as a guide.

Preventing dipping

"Dipping", where the work-piece is rounded off at either end, is a common fault. It is caused by allowing the plane to rock backward and forward at each end of the cut.

Maintain pressure on the plane with the forward hand at the beginning of the cut, and with the rear hand at the end.

Leveling a flat surface

Where boards have been glued together, perhaps to make a table top, they will have to be leveled. Using a sharp, finely set jack plane, or a jointer if the workpiece is very large, plane directly acrobs the grain for hardwoods and diagonally across the grain in two directions for softwoods.

Holding the plane at an angle to the direction of the cut will help to produce a smooth slicing action. Having leveled the surface, finally plane in the direction of the grain to produce a finished surface.

Before using any plane, check the work for nails and screws which will chip the cutting edge. To help the plane move easily across the work, wax the sole with a candle.

Bull Nose Plane

SIZE: Length: 3 to 4-1/2in.; Cursing iron width: 3/8 to 1-1/8in.

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron: Cutting iron: steel

USE: To plane up to a right angle such as a stopped rabbet

Bull nose planes arc constructed and adjusted in the same way as shoulder planes. There are fixed and multi-adjustable versions. The simplest and smallest version has a hardwood wedge to hold the blade in position.

The most versatile models have an adjustable front end to allow for mouth adjustment and to convert the tool into a chisel plane.

Bench Rabbet Plane

OTHER NAMES: Bench rebate plane, coachmaker's rebate plane carriage-makers rebate plane

SIZE: Length: 9 to 13in.; Cutting iron width: 2-1/8 in.

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron, aitrinn iron: steel; Handle knob: wood

USE: To cut wide rabbets

The rabbet plane is constructed in exactly the same way as other bench planes, except that the blade extends across the complete width of the sole. There is no fence guide, so a batten, or piece of wood, must be clamped to the workpiece to act as a guide for the plane. During the cut, keep the side of the plane firmly pressed against the batten, working down to a depth line drawn on the edge of the workpiece. Check the rabbet with a square at frequent intervals as work progresses.

Wooden planes of the jack plane type exist where the cutting iron breaks through the body on one side enabling the tool to plane a rabbet. The blade is set at an angle which tends to pull the plane against the shoulder of the rabbet.

A modern plane is available, which is similar to the bench rabbet plane, except that the blades are discarded and replaced when blunt.

Rabbet and Filister Plane

OTHER NAME: Rebate and Blister plane

SIZE: Length: 10in.; Cutting iron width: 1-1/4in.

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel

ACCESSORIES: Guide fence; depth gauge; spur

USE: To cut rabbets in lumber

The plane can be used as a standard rabbet plane without the guide accessories, using a guide batten clamped to the work as for a bench rabbet plane. Rabbets wider than the cutting iron can be cut by making more than one pass, moving the guide batten back to the finished line between passes. Once the cut has been established the guide batten can be removed and the wall of the rabbet used as a guide.

Adjustment

The cutting iron, which has no back iron, is mounted bevel downward and is secured by a lever cap tightened by a locking screw. Corrugations on the underside of the blade locate on a spigot on the fine adjustment lever. With the lever cap in position but not fully tightened, the lever is operated to the required setting and the locking screw is finally tightened. The cutting iron can be mounted in the centre of the plane for normal work, or at the forward end for bull nose work. No fine adjustment is provided at the forward position and the cutting iron must be accurately positioned by hand before the lever cap can be tightened.

Accessories

With the guide accessories fitted, the rabbet plane becomes a filister plane, which can cut identical rabbets without constant rechecking. The guide fence is attached to the tool by one or two threaded arm rods. It slides on these rods to the required setting and is clamped in position by locking screws.

The filister plane with depth gauge and guide fence in place. The guide fence can be fitted on either side of the plane.

The depth gauge, which is fitted on one side only, is fixed at a measurement from the cutting edge equivalent to the depth of the rabbet. A spur is provided on the right hand side of the stock to scribe a line in advance of the cutter.

Using the plane

For a standard rabbet, set the accessories as required, and mount the blade in the central position. With the workpiece fixed securely in a vise or between bench stops, rest the tool on the forward end maintaining pressure against the fence with the left hand. Make short strokes with the plane, gradually moving backward as the rabbet becomes established. Continue with the operation until the depth stop comes into contact with the work and no further shavings can be produced from the work.

Chisel out the front end of a stopped rabbet. Change the cutting iron to the forward position, and proceed as above.

Block plane

SIZE: Length: 3-1/2 to 8in.: Cutting iron width: 1 to 1-5/8 in.

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel; Knob: wood or metal

USE: To trim end grain and other fine work

Block planes exist in a variety of patterns but they are all designed to cut end grain. They were originally developed to level butcher's and possibly engraver's blocks, both made of end grain lumber. Block planes have their blades mounted at a low aingle. The normal pitch is 20 but it can be as low as 12 on some planes. They can be used single handed with the lever cap resting in the palm of the hand, and the thumb and fingers located in recesses on either side of the body. A knob is provided at the toe of the plane where pressure can be applied with the fingers.

Varieties of block plane

SIMPLE NON-ADJUSTABLE PLANE

The shallow pitch of the block plane cutting iron means that it is mounted bevel side up. Consequently a back iron is not required, the bevel doing the job itself. The simplest form of block plane has the cutting iron held in place by a knurled wheel operating on a screw. Adjust the blade before the wheel is tightened.

DOUBLE ENDED BLOCK PLANE

Like the simple non-adjustable plane, this tool has no screw adjustment for the blade, but it has two positions allowing it to be used as a bull nose plane.

FULLY ADJUSTABLE BLOCK PLANE

Block planes are made with partial and full adjustment. The lever cap is often secured by a laterally moving lever which operates a cam. The depth of the cutting iron can be adjusted by a variety of screws, and lateral movement controlled by means of a lever. Some planes have an adjustable mouth operated by a lever attached to the guide knob

Using a block plane

The main purpose of the block plane is to cut end grain. Keep it extremely sharp and set to produce a fine cut. Plane from either end to prevent the grain splitting or plane a chamfer on the far end first.

Shoulder Plane

OTHER NAME: Rabbet plane

SIZE: Length: 4-1/2 to 8in.; Cutting iron width: 5/8 to 1-1/4 in.

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel

USE: To trim shoulders of large joints and to cut rabbets

Shoulder planes are accurately machined so that the sole and each side of the body are perfect right angles. Together with a blade which extends right across the sole of the tool3 this enables the plane to trim shoulders and rabbets. As with the block plane, the cutting iron is mounted bevel uppermost and at a low angle to trim end grain.

Varieties of shoulder plane

Some shoulder planes have a lever cap which holds the cutting iron in position and is secured by a locking screw. With this slackened the blade can be removed for sharpening. To replace, carefully locate the slot at one end of the cutting iron over the adjustment screw. Replace the cap, adjust depth of cut and lock in place. The mouth can be adjusted by a screw in the nose of the plane.

The mouths of other shoulder planes are adjusted by moving the greater part of the body and nose in one piece. It can be removed altogether by loosening the locking screw on the top and sliding it forward. With the top section of the body removed, the tool can be used as a chisel plane which can work right up into a corner or finish a stopped rabbet.

The cap which clamps the cutting iron in place is slackened by the screw to the rear. The cutting iron can then be dislocated from the adjusting screw and withdrawn forward. Reassemble in the reverse order and adjust the cutting iron to the required depth before finally tightening the lever screw.

Combination planes have detachable noses, one to make a conventional shoulder plane, another a bull nose plane. It can be used as a chisel plane.

Using a shoulder plane

To run on a tenon, lay a finely set shoulder plane on its side. Clamp the work in a vise to use the shoulder plane two handed. Cut rabbets as with a bench rabbet plane.

Compass Plane

OTHER NAME: Circular plane

SIZE: Length: 10in.; Cutting iron width: 1-3/4in.

MATERIAL: Stock: cast iron; Sole: steel; Cutting iron: steel

USE: To cut concave and convex wooden sections

Metal compass planes have an adjustable, flexible sole that can be used on both concave and convex surfaces to any radius between limits. Either a handle is provided or the stock is shaped to fit the hands at either end of the plane. Older wooden compass planes were made to a pre-determined radius, and separate planes were needed to work concave and convex sections.

Adjusting the plane

Two basic patterns are common today. Both take the standard bench plane assembly of cutting iron, back iron and lever cap, all of which are mounted and adjusted as for bench planes. In the first model, the sole is fitted to either end of a fixed stock while the centre, fixed to the frog of the tool, is moved up or down by means of an adjusting screw. In the second model, die centre of the sole is fixed to the frog while both ends of the sole move up or down simultaneously operated by levers connected to an adjustment screw.

To adjust the tool, rest it on the roughly cut workpiece and adjust the sole until it corresponds with the required radius of the work.

Using the plane

The compass plane is used in the same way us any bench plane but the tool must be kept square to the direction of the curve to maintain an accurate radius. As when working any curved section, the direction of cut must be changed to suit the direction of the grain.

Rasp Plane

OTHER NAME: Surform plane

SIZE: Blade length: 5-1/2iin. and 10in.; Blade width: 1-5/8in.

MATERIAL: Blade: hardened steel; Stock: zinc alloy; Handle: plastic

USE: To shape wood, plastic and soft metals

With a rasp plane, unlike a conventional rasp, the waste does not clog the teeth, but is easily cleared through holes in the blade during the cut. This blade, used throughout the entire range of Surform tools, is made up of a series of small teeth pressed out of a steel sheet, ground and set to one cutting angle.

Standard size blades are fitted into a series of holders, two of which resemble more conventional planes. The smaller pattern is designed to be used one handed while the two handed version is sometimes adapted to a file type tool by reversing the handle.

Fitting the blades

Blades are never sharpened, but replaced when blunt. One end hooks over the rear of the stock, while the other locates on a screw adjustable tension bar. The teeth face forward.

Using the rasp plane

The tool is handled as conventional planes, but the design of the blade enables it to be used against the grain of lumber without tearing it. It is used for preliminary shaping only and the surface may require further finishing.

Toothing Plane

SIZE: Length: 6-1/2 to 9in.; Cutting iron width: 2in.

MATERIAL: Body: beech; Cutting iron: steel

USE: To score a wooden surface prior to gluing or veneering

Made and adjusted like a smoothing plane, the traditional toothing plane is a toothed scraper held almost vertically in a jig. The serrated edge scores the surface to provide escape for excess air and glue which would otherwise leave bubbles under the veneer.

 

Side Rabbet Plane

OTHER NAME: Side rebate plane

SIZE: Length: 5-1/2in.; Cutting iron width: 1/4 and 1/8in.

MATERIAL: Body: zinc; Cutting iron: steel; Handle: rosewood

ACCESSORIES: Depth gauge

USE: To relieve the side walls of rabbets and grooves

Side rabbet planes are fitted with two blades so the tool can be used from right to left or vice versa. This is important when trimming both sides of a groove where you can only work from one end to accommodate the direction of the grain. The nose pieces are removable up to the end of a stopped groove.

Be sure to set the blades to the required depth of cut before finally securing them with the clamp.

Depth gauge

Use the gauge to prevent the blade from catching the work. Adjust the gauge so the point just touches the bottom of the rabbet. The gauge also helps to keep the flat base square against the groove wall.

Moulding Plane

SIZE: Length: 9-1/2in.; Width: 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8in.

MATERIAL: Blade: steel; Stock/wedge: beech, hornbeam

USE: To cut mouldings in wood

Older craftsmen had many varied wooden moulding planes to produce windows, door frames and furniture mouldings.

Today a much reduced range of moulding planes is still available from some modern tool catalogs and suppliers.

Moulding plane blades are ground to form the reverse of the moulding they are intended to produce. The sole of the plane is shaped to match tlie edge of the blade, and there is a depth stop and side fence in the form of small rabbets.

To release the wedge and remove the blade for sharpening, cup the iron and wedge in one hand and tap the notch in the wedge with the cheek of a hammer. Sharpen the blade with shaped stones. Replace the cutter and push in the wedge just enough to hold it. Adjust the setting by tapping either the iron (if you want a deep cut) or the heel of the stock (for a shallow cut). Drive the wedge home tight.

Tongue and Groove Planes

SIZE: Width: 9-1/2in. Width 5/8, 1-1/2in.

MATERIAL: Cutting iron: steel; Stock: beech

USE: To cut a tongue and groove joint on the edge of boards

Tongue and groove planes are sold in pairs to cut the tongue on the edge of one board and a matching groove in the edge of another board. The tongue and groove will then slot together to make a perfect joint.

The tongue plane has a shaped cutter to plane away lumber on both sides of the tongue which is left protruding from the edge of the board. The groove plane should be set to cut a groove slightly deeper than the height of the tongue.

Hollowing and Rounding Planes

SIZE: Length: 9-1/2in.; Width: 1/4 to 3/4in.

MATERIAL: Cutting iron: steel; Stock: beech

USE: To cut moulding

Like the tongue and groove planes, hollowing and rounding planes are sold in pairs. They cut matching concave and convex curves, which can be used in combination to form various mouldings. At one time, the full set of planes would have run to 18 pairs, but modern catalogs offer a more limited range.

 

Plow Plane

SIZE: Cuts grooves and rabbets from 1/8 to 1/2in. wide

MATERIAL: Body: cast irons Cutting iron; steel; Handle: plastic, iron

USE: To cut grooves and rabbets

The plow plane is built to make specific cuts while being guided by fences and depth gauges. It is designed primarily to cut grooves but will also cut rabbets up to fin. wide in one pass.

 

Fitting the blade

Specific models of plow planes differ slightly in detail, but the principles are the same. A clamp and screw hold the blades in the body of the plane. Slacken the clamp and insert the cutter from the top, with the bevel on the underside, A slot on one side of the cutter locates on the shoulder of an adjusting screw. Tighten the clamp slightly and adjust the blade to the required depth before finally securing the screw and clamp.

Very narrow blades do not have a slot to fit the adjusting screw and must be set by hand.

Plow plane cutters are available with only a grinding angle, not a honing angle.

Setting the depth gauge

The depth gauge is a horizontal fence fitted on one side of the body. Use a rule to set the gauge to the required depth from the bottom of the skate and finger tighten the locking screw. Long gauges should be checked at both ends to insure that they are parallel with the bottom of the skate. Tighten the screw when you are satisfied with the setting.

Setting the guide fence

A fence is provided to guide the cutter the required distance from the edge of the work. It is clamped to the metal guide rods on either side of the plane. Use a rule to set the fence the required distance from the blade and tighten the clamping screws to hold it in place.

Maintenance

Lightly oil machine threads on the adjusting screws, and rub candle wax on the fences to provide a smooth action.

Blades are ground to an angle of 35° and should be sharpened on an oilstone, preferably with a honing gauge.

Combination Plane

SIZE: Cuts grooves along or across the grain and rabbets up to 7/8in. wide; beads 1/8 to 1/2in. wide; tongues 1/4in. wide

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel; Handle: plastic, cast iron

USE: To cut grooves, rabbets, beads and tongue and groove

The combination plane is like the plow plane but boasts additional features. The blade assembly, depth gauge and guide fence are identical, but spurs are provided so that cuts can be made across the grain. Spurs have knife edges to cut the grain ahead of the blade. One spur is fixed to the body and another to the sliding section.

Adjust the spurs to give a fine cut and secure with the clamping screws. Keep the spurs sharpened with an oilstone or a smooth file.

The sliding section, which is an extended blade clamp, also carries the beading gauge. A bead can be cut on a square edge of a board using the standard fence as a guide, but on a tongued edge the beading gauge acts as a fence. It is adjusted in exactly the same way as the depth gauge.

Sharpen the beading cutters as you would the plow cutters, but use a slipstone to hone the curved edge.

Multi-Plane

SIZE: Cuts grooves, rabbets and dados 1/8 to 1/2in. wide; beads 1/8 to 1/2in., wide; tongues 3/16 and 1/4in. wide; ovolos 1/4 and 3/8in. wide; sash mouldings 1-1/2 and 1-3/4in.; grouped reeds 1/8 and 1/4in. wide; hollows and rounds 1/2 to 1in. wide; stair nosings 1-11/16in.

MATERIAL: Body: cast iron; Cutting iron: steel; Handle: hardwood

USE: To cut grooves, rabbets, dados, beads, tongue and groove joints and mouldings

The multi-plane combines the features of the plow and combination planes, but is made even more versatile by the addition of extra cutters. The blades are fitted and the depth gauge and guide fence adjusted like those on the plow and combination planes. A slitting knife can be fitted instead of a blade which can cut a strip from the edge of a board.

The multi-plane can be converted by substituting special bases in place of the sliding section. Bases to make hollow and rounding planes are also easy to obtain.

Another shaped base and cutter will plane stair nosings.

Using the plane

Move the plane backward along the work, gradually cutting the groove. Continue until the depth gauge comes into contact with the work.

Cutting a groove

A plow, combination or multiplane can cut a groove. Fit the required cutter, and set the depth gauge and fence. Try where possible to work with the grain for a smoother cut, starting at the far end of the work with the plane held upright and the fence hard against the edge.

Cutter for groove

To cut a groove in end grain, use a saw and chisel to cut out the first half of the groove to prevent splitting.

Cutting a rabbet

Cutter for rabbet

Choose a blade just wider than .the rabbet itself, and set the depth gauge and guide fence. The fence will pass under the blade when cutting a rabbet. Use the plane as described for the groove. Any of the planes will cut a rabbet with the grain. To cut a rabbet across the grain, fit a spur to a combination or a multi-plane to score ahead of the blade.

Cutting a dado

As with the cross grain rabbet, a dado can only be cut with the combination or multi-plane. Select the appropriate blade and adjust the sliding section so that both spurs line up with the edges of the cutter. Nail a straight edge wooden strip across the work against which you can run the body of the combination or multi-plane.

Cutting a tongue and groove joint

Combination and multi-planes are supplied with special tongue cutting blades. There is an adjustable stop on the blade itself to regulate the tongue.

Cutting a bead

Combination and multi-planes both have beading cutters. If you do not require a shoulder on the outside edge, set the guide fence under the cutter to move it out the required amount. Tongued and grooved boards are often beaded in this way to mask the join. Use the beading gauge as a fence, but continue to use the depth gauge throughout.

A centre bead, that is one set away from the edge of a board, can be cut with plow or combination planes. The multiplane has a foot attached to the forward arm which supports the plane when the bead is a long way from the edge,

Cutting reeds

A series of beads grouped together is known as reeding. Special cutters are available for the multi-plane to cut up to five reeds in one pass. Set up the plane as for beading.

Cutting a flute

With the appropriate cutter fitted set up the multi-plane to cut a flute as for a centre bead.

Cutting an ovolo moulding

Fit an ovolo cutter in the multiplane and use a depth gauge and guide fence to cut the moulding on the edge of a board. Clamp wood to the work to prevent end grain splitting.

Cutting a sash moulding

The sash moulding cutter makes the window glass rabbet and moulding in one pass. It has a depth stop on the blade.

Align the cutter sliding section with its outside edge, and set the guide fence as required. Plane one half of the moulding, reverse the work and plane the other half. Plane the mouldings on the edge of a large board, cutting it off aftervmrd.

Slitting a board

Cut narrow strips from the edge of a board by fitting the slitting knife just in front of the multi-plane handle.