Food from the Wild

Freshwater Fish

Perch

The perch is a picturesque fish with brightly coloured scales and a large, sharp dorsal fin. It lives in ponds, lakes and slow to moderate-flowing rivers and streams, and lies close to tree roots large stones and bridges or landing piles. The meat, once the scales and bones are cast aside, is delicious.

Crayfish

Though strictly crustacean, the crayfish is the edible odd one out, inhabiting fresh rather than salt water­the reason it is included here. Pollution has killed off many of the crayfish which used to inhabit the streams of England. However, they are still to be found in chalk and lime­stone areas of the country. Crayfish are usually caught in baited lobster pots although they can be trapped with a faggot of gorse into which some offal or bad meat is placed-the crayfish crawl in to eat and, one hopes, are unable to crawl out.

Madame Prunier claimed that 'there are three kinds of crayfish, or rather three different sizes. The small ones, which average just over an ounce and a half [35g], are used for soups; the medium sized ones averaging two ounces [50g], are used for garnishes; while the larger ones, weighing about three ounces [75g], are used in the recipes which follow.' Before cooking, the crayfish should be washed well, and the intestinal tube removed. This is done with the point of a knife; the tube is located in an opening under the middle phalanx of the tail. Care should be taken not to break it while pulling it out.

Trout

Not only do trout vie with salmon and salmon trout (sometimes called sea trout) for the position of the finest fish the gastronome can consume, they are also one of the most sporting fish to catch. For this reason, most rivers stocked with trout are under ownership and permission to fish them is only given at a price. Trout are common in fast-flowing streams, rivers and deep akes all over Britain.

Their prevalence in certain areas is often indicated by the place name. Hence, Troutbeck in the Lake District and Troutsdale in Yorkshire. Trout vary in colour iepending on their surroundings and habitat. A fresh trout is never better than when fried in butter or grilled. Ones which have been out of the water some time may benefit from dressing-up.

Salmon

Salmon fishing is even more highly prized than trout. Gone are the days when housemaids had it written into their contracts that they should not be fed salmon more than a specified number of times a week. Salmon should never be eaten out of season­September to January-as it changes character completely during this time, becoming black and unpalatable.
Migratory, salmon spend the winter in the ocean entering fast-flowing rivers from January onwards returning to their birthplace to spawn.

Bream

Bream likes slow moving, or stagnant water which typically is found in the lowland reaches of large rivers. The French have a proverb that 'he that hath breams in his pond is able to bid his friend welcome.' They are best stuffed or baked in the following manner.

Carp

A still-water fish, it will survive in conditions where others would die for lack of oxygen. For this reason, from the Middle Ages to the present day, the carp has been popular for domestic fish ponds and for fish farming. Carp are very long-lived and grow to 22kg (50lb) in weight. It was once thought that by eating carp some of their longevity was passed on to the consumer. Carp are inclined to be muddy and should be soaked in vinegar and water (6 tablespoons to 2.2l [4pt] water) for a few hours after cleaning and before cooking. The bitter gall sack at the back of the neck should be removed and some cooks like to take off the scales as well. This is facilitated by dipping the fish for a minute in boiling water. Tench is a relative of the carp and may be cooked in the same ways.

Pike

Pike lie concealed in weeds or holes until a smaller fish passes close enough to be grabbed and eaten. They can then move at incredible speed. Weedy rivers, streams and ponds all over Britain will be likely to have their supply of pike. The flesh, inclined to be dry to the taste, is improved by being left in salt for 12 hours before cooking. It can then be cut in steaks coated with egg and breadcrumbs and fried and served with a horse-radish sauce. Pike are also good stewed.

Eel

Eels breed in the ocean, migrating to rivers when about 7cm (3in) long. Called elvers at this stage, they are caught in great numbers, especially at the mouth of the Severn river, washed in salt water and fried like whitebait. The elvers that manage to bypass the elver nets spend the next seven to twelve years in the river before migrating back to the ocean. As they migrate down river in autumn, traps are laid to catch them.

At other times eels can be netted and speared, using a long three-pronged fork which is jabbed down into the mud where the eels lie. Once caught, an eel is a wriggly thing to kill, and even after death it is helpful to place the eel on newspaper to stop it moving.

Correctly, the spinal cord should be pierced by a skewer at the back of the neck but the uninitiated might find it easier to chop off the head. Skin the eel by making an incision round its neck and pulling the skin backwards from the top, rather like taking off a stocking. Eels may be cut in sections and smoked, or floured and fried, or stewed. Here is a recipe derived from one of Madame Prunier's;

Seawater Fish

Dab

A member of the plaice family, dab is a flat fish inhabiting inshore waters all around Britain in summer but is most frequently found off sandy banks at 20-24m (11-12 fathoms). Dabs may be caught with a rod and line. Fresh dabs should be plain grilled, or covered with egg and breadcrumbs and fried. Dabs which have been out of the water for a little while will be improved by dressing-up.

Whiting

They inhabit shallow, sandy bottomed waters and are common everywhere but particularly in the North Sea. They take a bait and can be caught with rod and line. A member of the cod family, whiting have the characteristic firm, white, flaky flesh and can be used for all the same recipes. Most whiting are filleted before cooking, the blunt head cut off and the backbone removed from the back, rather than the front, as you would a kipper. Cover with egg and breadcrumbs and fry or cook in a sauce. This is a Normany recipe quoted by Jane Grigson in Fish Cookery

Flounder

A flat fish, in summer it can be found in estuaries and inshore waters flapping along the bottom of the seabed. Flounder live on molluscs, especially cockles, and take a bait freely. 'The flounder is in taste, digestion and nourishment, like unto the plaice, especially if he be young', to quote Venner's Via recta ad vitarn longam, Ed 1628, but most people would not rate it as high as this. Prepare for cooking by removing the head, cutting off side fins and tail.

Mackerel

Migrating to deeper water in winter, in summer mackerel are spasmodically abundant in shoals all around the coast of Britain, although stocks are now diminishing. They are caught with a rod and line or in nets. Mackerel quickly deteriorate and should be eaten very fresh. An oily fish, small ones are best grilled. Make a couple of incisions in the back first and serve with a sorrel or gooseberry sauce. Larger ones should be baked.

Cod

Most of the cod found in fishmongers are caught in northern waters round Iceland, where the fish migrate for the winter. However, in summer they are to be found in shoals in shallower water, 30-80m (16-44 fathoms), around the coast of Britain, where they feed on worms and small fish. Cod are really best covered with egg and breadcrumbs and fried and served with a parsley, hollandaise or bearnaise sauce.