Food from the Wild - Fungi

Grassland Fungi

Field Mushroom Agaricus campestris

Rule one with all fungi is to identify the species properly before eating. Mistakes are made even with the common field mushroom. People confuse it with the death cap with dire results, although for anyone at all observant this should be impossible. The death cap grows in woodland whereas the field mushroom, as its name presupposes, grows in fields; pastures on which horses have been feeding and have left their droppings are ideal for the field mushroom.

They are never surpassed when picked in the early morning, fried in the fat in which the bacon has been cooked and eaten for breakfast. They can also be stewed with parsley and garlic and the small button ones make an excellent champignon a la Greque, but any of the recipes given here are also suitable for field mushrooms.

Fairy Ring Champignon Marasmius oreades

This is the fungi which makes the well known, and to the fervent lawn­keeper dreaded, fairy rings on lawns from June to November. The rings gradually widen and expand as the underground threads, which propagate the fungi, spread outwards. Pale buff in colour, they have a faint smell of sawdust about them and are edible and good.

They can be used in all mushroom dishes and, for preserving, dry well. Thread them on a string with knots in between each mushroom and hang in a dry, warm, airy room or spread them out in a cool oven. When thoroughly dry, put them in paper bags and store in a warm place. Before using, soak them in warm water for at least 1 hour and use as you would fresh mushrooms, perhaps for soup.

Parasol Lepiota procera

Shaggy Parasol L. rhacodes

The shaggy parasol is squatter and broader and its flavour is not quite as fine as the parasol mushroom. It is also found predominantly in fields, or on roadsides and rubbish tips, while the parasol grows in grassy woodland clearings. They both have brown, flecked, scaly caps, white gills and a volval ring and appear between August and November. They are huge and one mushroom is almost a meal in itself; if stuffed, it certainly is.

Morel Morella esculenta

There are four edible morel and all of them are spring mushrooms, appearing during March, April and May. Though they vary in size and shape they are instantly recognisable by their brown spongy, honeycomb-like caps. Found in all types of situation with a rich soil, in grassland, hedgerows and gardens. They need to be washed well and blanched in boiling water before cooking. Then they are good used in soups, stews or dried.

Bracket Fungi

Beefsteak Fistiilina hepatica

This fungi gets its name from the texture of the flesh which is thick and fibrous like steak and yields a red juice when cut. It causes a brown rot in the trees on which it grows making the wood, much prized by cabinet makers, a rich brown colour without having any effect on its strength. The fungi is shaped like a hoof with a coarse brown skin and is reasonably common from August to November. Beeksteak has a rather acrid taste like aubergine. It is best to blanch it and cut off the thick rind before cooking, after which it may be sliced and fried with onion and parsley, stewed or made into ketchup.

Grifola Grifola frondosa

Sometimes found at the base of deciduous trees, especially oak, in September and October, a densely tufted, greyish-brown fungi with a rather rancid smell. Poor eating but substantial and may be served as a food in times of need.

Honey Fungus Armellaria mellea

Another destructive parasite of both frondose and coniferous trees. It grows in clumps at the base of the tree between July and November, is brownish yellow all over, often spotted brown, and has a volval ring. Honey fungus makes good eating, though some find it rather rich. Cook in all the usual ways or use as a stuffing for pigeon, quail or other small birds.

Oyster Fungus Pleurotus ostereatus

A destructive fungus which gradually kills its host tree. It may be found on any frondose tree but is most common on beech and will sometimes attack conifers too. It grows in groups. The shell-like cap is a greyish blue when young, blackening with age; it has whitish gills and grows the whole year round. When young, it makes good eating. Slice and fry in butter or bake it.

Woodland Fungi

Chanterelle Cantharellus cibarius

Easily identified and one of the finest edible fungi, chanterelle appear between July and December in deciduous woods. Horn shaped, they are a strong apricot yellow all over and even smell of apricots. Cook them as simply as possible in order not to lose any of their exquisite flavour.

Chanterelle
Slice the chanterelle and cook in butter in a covered frying pan. When tender, add parsley and a tablespoon or so of chicken stock. Stir until the juices are soaked up, then serve.

Cep Boletus edulis

Though there are several edible boletus, this is the one the gastronomes fancy­known in France as ceps and mentioned as an ingredient in many recipes. Found in leafy woods, especially beech woods, it is large and bulbous with a smooth, brownish cap, spongy white spores instead of gills, a pale brown scaly stalk; it usually appears from September to November. Cook as field mushrooms but chop the stalk separately as this is tougher than the head. Ceps go well with trout and chicken.

Wood Mushroom Agaricus silvicola

Related to the field mushroom, it may De found in all types of woodland oetween August and November, has a whitish cap, flesh-coloured gills and a loose, volval ring. Cook in the same ways as the field mushroom or make into a puree. It makes an excellent filling for omelettes and is good in sauces for chicken or veal, or as filling for vol au vent cases.

Russula Russula cyanoxantha

Another large family easily distinguished by their crisp, white gills, smooth, white stalks and reddish­mauve caps. Several russula are edible but R. cyanoxantha is considered the best. This has a pale violet cap which, when peeled, reveals a reddish flesh. It appears between July and November and may be cooked in all the usual ways. This dish makes a good starter or, on its own, a lunch or supper dish.