KNOTS
Part 1

It is important to select the right knot for the task in hand. You never know when you may need to tie a knot, so learn their uses and how to tie and untie each one.

In the instructions for individual knots that follow the end of the rope or cord being used to tie the knot is referred to as the `live end' to distinguish it from the other end of the rope, of- `standing part'.

REEF KNOT: Use to tie ropes of same thickness. Holds firm under strain, yet is easily untied. It is not reliable for ropes of different diameters, nor for nylon. Can be tied in other materials - use in first aid. It will lie flat against the patient.
Pass right end over left (a) and then under it (b). Take left over right (c) and underr it (d).
Check - the 2 loops should slide on each other. Tighten by pulling both strands on each side (e). To be doubly sure, finish by making a half-hitch with the live ends on either side of the knot (0.

Simple knots

These knots are quickly made and will help you understand the more complicated knots that follow.

OVERHAND KNOT:
Make a loop and pass the live end back through it.

OVERHAND LOOP:
rixect loop to: throwing over a projection. Double the end of rope and tie overhand knot with the loop.

FIGURE-OF-EIGHT:
An end-stop. Make a loop. Carry live end first behind, then round, standing part. Bring it forward through the loop.

FIGURE-OF-EIGHT LOOP:
Made in the same way as the figure-of-eight, but with line doubled, using loop as the live end. Can be used over a spike anchor for a belaying rope.

RE WOVEN FIGURE-OF-EIGHT:
Use when top end of a projection is out of reach. Make loose figure of-eight along the rope. Pass live end round anchor and feed it back round the figure-of-eight, following exactly. Ease tight.

AJoining ropes

SHEET BEND:
If correctly made and strain is not erratic this won't slip. I Make a loop in one rope. Take live end of the other (a) right ,round behind loop to the front, carry it over itself and then tuck down through loop. 2 Draw it tight and ease into shape as strain is increased.

DOUBLE SHEET BEND:
More secure variation of sheet bend - use on wet ropes and where strain is not constant.
1 Make a loop in the thicker rope. Take live end of thinner rope (a) through loop, beneath thicker live end and then forward on outside of loop and right round it. Bring thin live end back between itself and outside of thick loop. 2 Take thin live end completely round the loop again and back through same place on outside of thick loop. 3 Draw tight and ease into shape.
If not tightened these knots tend to work loose. Do not use with smooth lines, e.g. nylon fishing line.

FISHERMAN'S KNOT:
Ideal for joining springy vines, wires, slippery lines and gut fishing line (soak gut first to make it pliable). Very secure but hard to untie. Not recommended for bulky ropes or nylon line. I Lay lines beside each other, the ends in opposite directions. Carry live end of one line round the other and make a simple overhand knot. 2 Repeat with live end of other line. 3 Partially tighten knots and slide towards each other. Ease them to rest against one another, completing tightening process.

DOUBLE FISHERMAN'S:
Stronger version of the above. Do not use for nylon fishing lines, nylon ropes, or bulky ropes. I Carry live end of one line ; round the other, then round both. 2 Carry live end back through the two loops. 3 Repeat with the end of the other line. 4 Slide the 2 knots together and tighten, easing them to rest well against each other. Apply strain gradually.

TAPE KNOT:
Use to join flat materials, e.g. leather, webbing, tape and sheets or other fabrics. I Make an overhand knot in the end of one tape. Do not pull it tight. 2 Feed the other tape through it so it follows exactly the shape of the first knot. 3 Live ends should be well clear of the knot so that they will not slip back when you tighten it.

Loop making

BOWLINE:
A fixed loop that will neither tighten nor slip under strain. Use at the end of a lifeline. 1 Make a small loop a little way along the rope. 2 Bring live end up through it, round standing part and back down through loop. 3 Pull on live end to tighten, easing knot into shape. Finish with a half-hitch.

RUNNING BOWLINE:
A loop which tightens easily. Make a small bowline and pass long end of rope through loop.
Never tie a running bowline round the waist, it acts like a hangman's noose and could kill.

TRIPLE BOWLINE:
A bowline made with a double line. Form a loop, pass doubled live end through loop, behind standing part and back through loop. This produces 3 loops which can be used for equipment haulage, or as a sit-sling or lifting harness with one loop round each thigh and the other round the chest. It takes practice learn it before you need to use it.

BOWLINE-ON-THE-BIGHT:
To support or lift someone from a crevasse. The loops will neither tighten nor jam, forming a bosun's chair, one loop fitting round buttocks, the other round upper body. Practice before you need to use it. I Using doubled line, form a loop and pass the live end through it. 2 Bring this end down (a) and over the end (b) of the larger double loop now formed. Ease it back up to behind the standing part (c). Pull on the large double loop to tighten (d).

MANHARNESS HITCH:
A non-slip loop. It can be made along the length of the rope, but does not require access to an end. .Several loops can be put on a rope for harnessing people together. Also a good way of preparing a rope for climbing. Toes and wrists can be put into the loops to carry weight allowing you to take a rest. I Make a loop in rope - look closely at the drawing. 2 Allow left side of rope to cross over loop. 3 Twist loop. 4 Pass it over left part of rope and through upper part of original loop. 5 Pull knot gently into shape, ease tight and test carefully.
Note: If not eased tight correctly loop may slip.
Different ways of making this knot may be found where the loop is not twisted at 3. The final strength of the loop does not appear to be affected either by making this twist or not, nor if the twist should straighten out in use.

Ladders

Tie as many manharness hitches in a rope as you need hand and foot holds. Rungs may be added, using strong sticks or pieces of wreckage.
Use 2 ropes or a long rope, doubled, with manharness hitches placed equally along both sides to make a rope ladder. As you make loops, pass sticks through the corresponding loops and ease tight to hold sticks firmly. Allow sticks to project a few inches on either side of the ropes and test for strength.

LADDER OF KNOTS:
A series of overhand knots tied at intervals along a smooth rope will make climbing it much easier.
1 Leaving a reasonably long free end, make a half-hitch near the end of a short piece of log. 2 Continue making loose half-hitches along the log - the diameter of which will fix the spacing of the knots. 3 Pass start end back through all the loops and then slide them all off the end of the log. 4 As each turn of rope comes through, the centre of the half-hitch loops to the other end. Shape and tighten each knot.


Hitches
Use to attach ropes to posts, bars and poles.

ROUND TURN AND TWO HALF-HITCHES:
The best way to secure a rope to a post.
Can take strain from any direction. Carry rope behind post, then round again. Bring live end over and back under standing end and through loop thus formed. Tighten and repeat half-hitch to make knot secure.

CLOVE HITCH:
Effective when strain is perpendicular to the horizontal. Not so good when the strain comes at an angle or is erratic.
1 Pass live end over and round bar. 2 Bring it across itself and round the bar again. 3 Carry the live end up and under itself, moving in the opposite direction to standing end. 4 Close up and pull tight.

TIMBER HITCH:
Use as a start knotfor lashings and for hoisting and for dragging or towing heavy logs. 1 Bring live end round bar and loosely round standing end. 2 Carry forward and tuck beneath rope encircling bar. Twist round as many times as comfortably fit. Tighten knot by gently pulling on standing end until a firm grip is achieved.

KILLICK HITCH:
To secure a lineto an anchoring weight, make a timber hitch round one end of weight and tighten. Carry line along weight and make a half-hitch.

MARLIN SPIKE HITCH:
A temporaryknot for securing a mooring line to a post, or for dragging over the top of an upright peg. By attaching a short, stout stick to the line it is possible to gain extra purchase for a firmer pull.
I Form a loop in the rope - study drawing carefully. 2 Bring one side of loop back up over standing end. 3 Drop this over the pole - the pole coming between extended loop and standing part. Pull live end to tighten.

Shortening rope

SHEEPSHANK:
Treble the line. Form half-hitches

QUICK-RELEASE KNOT:
A secure knot, but will come untied with a single sharp tug on the live end. Recommended for temporarily anchoring lines.
1 Carry a bight round a post or rail.
2 Bring a bight from the standing end through the first bight.
3 Form live end into a further bight and push doubled end through loop of second bight. Pull on standing end to tighten knot.
4 To release pull sharply on live end.
in outer lengths and slip over adjoining bends. Or, instead of half-hitches, when a loop is formed in the standing part, pull a bight through it and slip this over bend in rope. Tighten as you gradually increase tension.

I
Make a sheepshank more secure by passing a stick through
the bend and behind the standing part
(a). Or, if you have access to the rope's end, pass that through the bight
(b). A stick would make this more secure.
Never cut a rope unnecessarily: a joined rope has only half the strength of a continuous one. Use sheepshank to shorten it or to exclude a damaged section.

Securing loads

TRANSPORT (or DOLLY) KNOT:
Use to secure a high load or to tie down a roof. For maximum purchase, pull down with all your weight then secure with 2 half-hitches. If it comes loose, undo the hitches, retighten and secure. 1 Make a loop in rope. Further down, towards end of rope, make a bight. 2 Pass bight through loop. 3 Make a twist in the new lower loop. Pass end of rope round securing point and up through this twist. 4 Pull end to tighten. 5 With end, make two half-hitches round lower ropes to secure. Undo these to adjust and retighten.

PRUSIK KNOT: A sliding loop. It will not slip under tension, but will slide along when tension is released. A pair of prusiks provide hand and foot holds for climbing or for swinging along a horizontal line. Slide them along main rope as you proceed. Also good for tent guylines.
1 Pass a bight round main rope, pull ends through. Keep loose.
2 Take ends over again and back down through loop. Ease tight. Do not allow circuits to overlap.
3 This gives the appearance of four turns on the main rope (a). Mountaineers take ends round and back through loop to give th( appearance of six turns on main rope (b).
4 A prusik knot can bE made using a fixed spliced loop: pass bight over main rope and back through itself, and repeat. 5 For use as a tensioning line attach along the guy rope etc., and secure ends (a) to an anchor.
Lashings
Methods of lashing differ according to the position of the components. These techniques are invaluable in making rafts, shelters, etc.

SQUARE LASHING:
For lashing spars which cross at right angles. 1 Make a timber hitch carrying line alternately above and below both spars in a complete circuit before securing it. Then carry rope anti-clockwise over and under both spars. 2 After three or four circuits make a full turn round a spar and circuit in the opposite direction. 3 Complete circuits with a half-hitch round one spar and secure with a clove hitch on a spar at right-angles.

ROUND LASHING:
Use to lash spars alongside each other or to extend length of a spar.
Begin with a clove hitch round both spars (a), then bind rope round them. Finish knot with a clove hitch at other end (b). Force a wedge under lashings to make them really tight. If spars are vertical bang the wedge in downwards.

DIAGONAL LASHING:
Use when spars do not cross at right-angles, or when spars need to be pulled towards one another for tying.
1 Begin with a timber hitch round both spars, placed diagonally.
2 Frap (lash) both spars with a few turns of rope over a timber hitch, then make a full turn under the bottom spar.
3 Frap across other diagonal, then bring rope back over one spar and make two or three circuits above upper spar and below lower.
4 Finish with a clove hitch on a convenient spar.

SHEAR LASHING:
To tie ends of two spars at an angle, e.g. for an A-frame. Begin with a clove hitch (a) round one spar. Bind, not very tightly, round both. Bring rope between spars and frap a few times round binding. Finish with a clove hitch round other spar (b). Tighten by opening up shears (c). A similar method can be used round three poles to"-_ make a tripod. Make turns round all three legs and frappings in the two gaps.. The feet of A-frames and tripod~.~should be anchored to stop them spreading.
-eau enu tnrougn eye. iviaKe 5turns round standing part. Pass live end through loop formed next to hook (i). Pull taut and snip off fairly close to end (ii).

Fishing Knots

HOOK ON TO NYLON II:
Two turn turl knot.. Thread hook. Pass live end round standing part to form a loop and through it. Twist live end twice round side of loop. Hold loop and pull twists tight. Pass hook through loop (1). Pull on standing part to tighten loop on hook (2).

JAM KNOTS:
To secure improvised hooks to gut or cord. With an eye: thread gut. Make two turns round hook and bring live end up through turns (a),
Ease tight and test for. strength. Without an eye: make loop round lower part of shaft. Make two half-hitches from upper end downwards and pass live end through lower loop (b). Pull on standing part to tighten.

HOOK ON TO NYLON I:

Half blood knot.

Fishing knots

HOOK ON TO GUT:
Turl knot. Soak gut. Thread through eye of hook. Make overhand loop and pass a bight through it (a) to form a simple slip knot (b). Pass hook through slip knot (c) and pull tight round shank.

LOOP IN NYLON I:
Double overhanc loop. Double line to make a bight. Tie an overhand in it (a). Twist end through again (b). Pull tight (c) and snip off end.

LOOP IN NYLON II:
Blood bight. Form a bight. Twist the end of it back round the standing part (i). Bring end back through new loop (ii). Pull tight and snip off loose end.

JOINING LOOPS:
With free ends: pass each line through the other loop (1) and pull tight (2). With only one end free: make loop on one line. Take live end of other line through loop, round it and back through and then tie off with either of the knots for hooks on to nylon.

JOINING NYLON:
Double three-fold blood-knots. Place ends alongside and twist one three times round the other. Bring live end -back and pass it through the space where th( two lines cross over the other line and under its own standing end (a) Repeat in the opposite direction with the other line. Live ends then point in opposite directions (b ). Ease tight.